La Balena - Italian Bliss In Carmel

  Last night I took my charming husband out to dinner. It was his birthday, and this is what we do. We haven't exchanged gifts for years. There was a time when I would buy loads of things for him…little things he would ask for throughout the year. I would file these items away and go hunt them down. Then I would gift wrap these treats, and pile them at the end of the bed for him to wake up to. 

  What can I say…we don't have kids. And he loved being treated like one….

  Since we've started traveling more, this is our gift to one another. And it's a great gift, believe me. Now we just enjoy each other over a nice dinner someplace special. 

  These days one of our most favorite spots of all is La Balena, in Carmel. We love that it is kind of hidden back in a sweet courtyard, off the beaten track. Admittedly, La Balena has been "found", but it deserves it's popularity.

The entry courtyard/outdoor dining area of La Balena.
There are two outdoor dining areas, front and back.

   Owners Anna and Emanuele Bartolini feel like family. They are warm and ever so welcoming. We have had lunch and dinner a few times since they opened... I think in 2012. Emanuele comes from Florence, Italy and his wife Anna is from Georgia. They are both sweethearts, and seem to really enjoy what they have here. 

  Emanuele worked front of the house at Del Posto in New York, as well as Cantinetta Luca, here in Carmel. He is easy going with a keen knowledge of Italian wines. We love to spend time chatting with him about Italy…and the accent kills me every time. The lovely Anna seems to be on sight at all times…a very hard working and dedicated gal. She is always ready to help us with the menu, and point us to vegetarian delights. I believe she is vegetarian herself, but not 100% certain…..Chef Brad Briske, though no longer vegan himself, hails from our favorite SF vegan eatery, Millennium, so we can always expect something special when it comes to the veg choices. 

  On more than one occasion, the kitchen has fixed us an off menu dish, because there isn't a veg option. I love this. And I understand, too, because everything on the menu is seasonal and much of it is locally sourced, too. We feel as though we are eating in Italy, honestly. The products are that good.

The main dining area. Cozy? Yes.

  We enjoy sitting either outside, in the back patio area, or at one of the "chef tables", which are located just off the side of the main dining room. You sit with boxes of wine, water, all sorts of activity from the kitchen…I really love it.

  A couple of photos, below, from the little chefs tables. We have also sat with pals at a four top table back in this area. We always have a good time here.

The B-Day boy waiting for something tasty to eat and drink.

Me, too! After several stressful weeks, so nice to just sit and relax,
waiting for a very wonderful meal.

An up close and personal view of the available wines.
We like to try something different, and have never been disappointed.

  While we decide on what's for supper, we almost always have the warm house marinated olives. I can't get enough. The mix of olives is nice, with both big, meaty varieties and the small fun-to-eat types. They are served really nice and warm, too. No fooling around.

  The luxury of an evening out….sigh. It's been awhile! We decide on something big and oaky to drink. Though the oak forward chardonnays are "out of fashion" these days, I don't care. We both love the buttery, liquid gold feel of these wines. On this night, we chose a wine from the Sonoma Coast, "Red Car". 

What's not to love? A perfect glass to sip with the olives, a bit of good ciabatta and some spicy green olive oil…HEAVEN.

I could just stop here, but…… why?

The dynamic duo…bread and olive oil.
Really great olive oil...

  The menu changes with the season, as I mentioned, so it's always fun to see what is new or different. We have watched various dishes come out from the kitchen(a big plus to eating at the chef's tables!), and it all looks so good….Though we are non-meat eaters, I still totally enjoy seeing the plates of osso buco, salumi, octopus, etc. go on by. Evidently, on certain nights only, there is a fried chicken to die for. It goes fast, too, so plan ahead for this dish. 

  At lunch, we'll often go for a couple of starters, and then split a salad and frittata. A perfect meal for mid-day. The salads are fresh and seasonal. Very inventive combinations, as well as classics, like panzanella.

The menu on this particular evening in September.

  After a little more wine, we asked to start with the bruschetta with basil and burrata. I almost never pass on the opportunity to dive into some burrata, and this was served in a different way than we have had before.
  We usually have this very delicate cheese, basically a fresh mozzarella ball stuffed with more mozzarella and cream, served on a plate, kind of "cracked open" and drizzled with good olive oil. You spread it on crusty grilled bread with a dash of sea salt, and dig in. This dish was warm, like a typical bruschetta, with the cheese just lightly melted and topped with fresh basil. Of course there is olive oil and salt….
  I could have had another plate, certo! But, being a good girl, I held back, knowing there would soon be a superb plate of pasta in the very near future...

Crispy, grilled bread, creamy burrata, and lemony basil.
I want to do this one at home. Maybe even tonight.

  In between bites, we followed the action in the kitchen as well as the nearby main dining room. It was busy, which is always nice to see, and the vibe was great. Both the outdoor dining areas were full, as the evening was warm enough to dine al fresco.
  Really, a perfect place to be at a most perfect time.

 
 We were going back and forth, trying to decide on a pasta dish. Johnny wanted gnocchi, but the menu had only a version with pork sausage. Sounded lovely, just not for us vegetarians. I had already zoomed in on the tagliatelle verde, so I was set. As always, Johnny didn't want to order the same as me, and I love this about him. We like to change plates about halfway through.
  Anyway, we asked our dear server if the chef could do a vegetarian gnocchi. She soon returned with options…a creamy, tomato or olive oil based sauce?
  I love La Balena.
  Johnny went with a creamy sauce.

The vegetarian gnocchi on this night
 featured chopped Tuscan kale in a light parmesan cream.
The slightly browned gnocchi were just the way we like them.

  I was pretty excited about my choice, the tagliatelle verde, and it was a perfect pasta for me. I don't care for pasta with lots of sauce, and when I cook at home, I like a more "dry" type of condiment for my pasta.

  The pasta was cooked just right, and the combo of chantarelle and artichoke is another match made in heaven. I often garnish pasta with toasted bread crumbs. They add a nice salty, oily crunch. The truffle oil was not too overdone, thankfully. Just enough to add a bottom note of earthiness. 

Crunchy, velvety, earthy. I would order this again in a heartbeat.

Since it was his birthday, Johnny splurged on some extra calories with the polenta with truffle oil.
Again, enough truffle to know it's there, but not too much.

   As we were just finishing our dinner, Anna let us know we were going to have some Italian company soon, and what a delightful surprise. Just married the day before, Giammario from Rimini, and his new American bride Brandi, were too much fun to sit next to. 

  We rarely chat with neighbors while in restaurants, but these guys made our evening more special. We both had fun talking about Italy, California, music, movies….art! It was great! When they stopped by the gallery the next day, we felt like we had made new friends. Anna knew we would enjoy their company, and I'm glad she did. 

  Serendipity!

Ciao, Newlyweds!
So glad we met you-

  You are thinking…what about dessert? Well, a dear friend had given Mr. J two little lemon pound cakes, which were waiting for us at home. Let me just say, they were so yummy…we only split one that evening, and had the second little bit of sweetness the following night.
  Thanks, Marilyn!!!

  I am just waiting for another good excuse to go back to La Balena. Hmmm…I think it's National "Go Out To Eat" day soon, isn't it? Yeah, yeah... that'll work for me….


  If you want the closest experience to true Italian dining on the Monterey Peninsula, don't hesitate! Make your reservation today, and enjoy una vera cucina Italiana!


For all the information you need:
La Balena

It's All About The Guys In Pointy Hats

   This year has been such a topsy-turvy roller coaster ride…..with hours, days, weeks, and now months spent helping my Dad during an ever changing event involving my Mom.

  What began, soon after we returned from Umbria in May, as a critical situation from a nasty fall, has finally turned a corner….and I can see a very bright light at the end of this long tunnel. I am amazed at the human body and its ability to heal.
 (Mom, you ROCK.)

  Now, with the worst of it all behind us(fingers crossed!!), I can relax a little and have some fun…..
  And, hey, what's more fun than photos of Gnomes & Sette Nani?!?

  I know I promised a couple of years ago that I would stop my obsessive picture taking of these various fellows, but I can't. I know I can't. It's just too easy, and they pop up everywhere we go.
  Why fight the urge…..

  

A cheery, yoga-savvy gnome welcomes us to a trattoria near Lago Trasimeno.

  Yes, Welcome…to the land of very odd fellows in pointy hats. 

  My pal and sister blogger, Dana, schooled me and her fellow readers on the difference between gnomes and the Seven Dwarves ("settee nani" in Italian) here, in her own wonderful blog. 

  I just pretty much love them all, and snap pictures at the drop of a pointy hat.

  The fun is in the hunt. I love to be surprised, and you never know when or where these jaunty dudes will show up….

  

  

A nice forest theme going on here…I think…
But the carpet, shells and palm frond kind of throw me.

  Many times, our be-hatted pal will show up all alone, no other friends in sight…..

I am quite fond of the shell shaped hat. It shows up often.
Here, he has only bizarre architectural debris for company.

 Sometimes there will be some sort of reference to a specific "career choice" in their dress….

Here we have a gardener gnome, complete with watering can.
And cheesy tinsel. And lights.

If I remember right, this miner lives in Pietrafitta.
We got caught in a big thunderstorm just moments after I took this shot.

Grave digger….
Isn't he great? I love his expression.

Well, I mean…Come on!
We have to have an artist in the family, right?!?
I had a really hard time holding back on swiping this guy.
I did not swipe.

  Sure, it's sad to see these happy little fellows all alone, knowing how social they can be. So it's always a treat to see them hanging out with pals.

  All kinds of…umm…pals.

Arm/paw wrestling? One potato two potato? Rock, Paper, Scissors?
 Not sure, but I like it.

I'm not so certain this guy is completely down with the ducks.
He looks kind of nervous.

  The next couple of shots were too good to be true. I only wish I could have gotten closer, but I've learned only too well the embarrassment and humiliation of being yelled at in Italian. 

  Still….a closer shot would have been sweet…..sigh.

I think the gnomes are having themselves a good old fashioned turtle race.
Either that, or a good old fashioned turtle hunt. I do see a few hatchets….
Soup anyone?

Ok. Please take a good, close look.
We have here Snow White, all Seven Dwarves,
 St. Nick and Godzilla. I love you, whoever you are.

  Having been both a professional gardener, and in a couple of bands (back in the day), I really got a big old kick out of seeing this happy group together one afternoon.
  Gnomes after my very own heart.

Also, I just can't get over the stylish footwear.
I think the beards are tie on, though...

  It's always a coup to catch the whole gang together. I especially look for the vintage sets. They are few and far between, and yet….and yet….

  Poor Johnny, having to pull the car over. Over and over and over….so I can hop out and snap a quick shot before being spotted. 

  It's a tough job, Dear Readers, and I certainly hope you appreciate the risks I take to entertain you, time and time again.

  Ok, I'm mostly having fun entertaining my own selfish self, but why not try to throw some blame out there into the void? 

  You make me do this. You, you!

  Ummmm…where was I? Oh!

 Yes, the lovely vintage sets of " Biancaneve e i Sette Nani" (Snow White and the Seven Dwarves), and their rare appearances.

Spotted from a (slow) moving car, I had to yelp a "stop!" to get the shot.

So, so worth it. This is a spectacular scene, even though
 one of the seven was hiding too far behind the tree to get him into the shot.
This was the best angle I could do, dang it.

  The final two images, of the same group, I have seen before, and actually have shown in a previous post, but this year they were out and really having themselves a good time. 

  After all, it was a "World Cup" year, right?

"Biancaneve, you are the best coach, ever!"

"I know, I know….now let's quit goofing around and bring home the win, ok guys?"

  Sadly, no win for our beloved Team Italia this year…but there's always next time.

  I love my quest for the perfect shot, especially of these wacky fellows. I guess I won't stop anytime soon, even after the close calls and being busted and yelled at a few times. What I need to do is learn more Italian, so I can properly and respectfully explain myself when the going gets, well, dicey.
  Who wouldn't understand? I figure this: If you take the time to display these fine fellows out front in your garden, you must want people to enjoy them…right?

  Oh, Janelle, you just rationalize your little obsession whichever way you need to……and quit climbing over fences, ok?
 

Two Years, Two Lunches In Valiano

  I'm hungry.

  I'm thinking about how great it would be to snap my fingers and be magically transported to Valiano, a small town just on the border of Umbria and Tuscany. It's just off the road between Castiglione del Lago and Montepulciano, the SS454... a lovely little drive, indeed.

  We happened onto Valiano like we happen onto most places we love….by chance. A drive in the countryside to look for a painting location, turns into the discovery of a great place to stop for a wonderful lunch.

  In this particular case, I'm hungry for Piccola Trattoria Guastini, in Valiano. We've eaten here twice, two consecutive years, for lunch. I think this will be a must visit every year now. 

The entrance to the trattoria, and it's patio area.

  I didn't write about our first visit in 2013, so I'm going to now… 

  It was a really warm day, and Johnny and I had rented bikes which we had fun riding around the nearby Lago di Montepulciano. On an earlier visit to this charming little town, we had stopped to take a look at the menu here, and liked what we saw. The plan was a bike ride, lunch, and painting. afterwards.

  We were so happy to have made a reservation for one of the outdoor tables. They have a lovely patio, with views over the valley and hills. 

  

An extra treat…all the cool light fixtures are made by our pal, Tonino!

  

  We made ourselves quite comfortable, cooled down a bit, and ordered a wonderful Tiburzi Santambra, a sangiovese blend from the Montefalco area. 

  We enjoyed a first course of locally produced mozzarella, paired with sweet tomatoes from the south, and drizzled with local olive oil, of course.

  It made for a nice bite after our biking adventure…ahhhhh.

The colors of the Italian flag, in all their deliciousness.

  I was happy to see a few vegetarian options on the menu, though one of the specialties is a pigeon ravioli. Maybe in another life, but probably not.
 
  Johnny just asked me to order whatever I thought would be good, so I did. For Mr. J, the house made tagliatelle with forest mushrooms of the season:

Mmmm, mmm, mmmmm.

  And for me, the ravioli stuffed with pecanzola, a pecorino cheese infused with gorgonzola, served with really well caramelized onions. 

  Oh. My. God. The sharpness of the cheese combined with the sweetness of the onions…deee-vine. 

  Perfect.

  We shared a side of braised field greens with olive oil, garlic and lemon. Typical in this area and season.

Doesn't this look good? 

I can't get enough of the field greens. They just taste so right.

  Since we had taken that long bike ride earlier, we just had to have a sweet treat to end our lunch. Johnny chose a mix of home made biscotti with a small tumbler of vin santo, a dessert wine that is sweet, nutty, and oh-so-smooth.

You must dip the biscotti in the vin santo for full effect.

  I loved my panna cotta with a marmalade of blood orange and fig, if I remember right. 

  Panna cotta is a cooked cream, and a very rich indulgence, for sure. But, hey….the bike ride, remember?

Panna cotta, I just gotta…….la la la la la.

  The inside dining room is nice, too. I can just imagine it at night, with all of Tonino's lights giving off a soft, warm glow….we'll really have to try dinner here next time. It's not that far to drive. You just have to keep your eyes peeled at night time for hedgehogs and porcupines….

  So, as I mentioned, we've been twice now, so I want to share the equally amazing lunch we had this year at Piccola Trattoria Guastini.

  This time the day was perfect…not too warm, and clear views all around.

  We started with a nice white….I think a vermentino, but I honestly don't remember. With whites, we will usually go with vermentino, grechetto, or trebbiano. These are all easy going, and "nice on a warm day" sort of wines.

Pretty as a picture….

  Again, I ordered for both of us, and it was really easy. I wanted to try both of the vegetarian antipasti available on this day, so….we did.

Their version of "Panzanella", or bread salad. So lovely and so refreshing.
The tomatoes were sweet, with some crunchy celery in there, too. Just a nice touch of garlic….

  I couldn't resist trying this vegetable "tortino"…it's sort of a small baked veggie "pie", only this definition doesn't come close. Just look at it, and you'll get the idea...

Tortino di Verdure…Vegetable pie.
I liked the little crispy, just this side of burnt, bits...

  On the day we went this year, there was only one vegetarian pasta dish, so I ordered it for both of us, and it was wonderful. Ravioli with ricotta and wild asparagus, served with more asparagus on top. 

  The wild asparagus is nothing like the kind we buy in the markets here. It has a sweet and subtle flavor, with a touch of "mineral" to it. It's so thin. 

  Reminds me of those old fashioned asparagus plants we all had in our bedrooms as little hippie kids. 

So good with a dusting of parmigiano reggiano.
I remember the filling being so warm and succulent-creamy.
Perfection on a plate...

  Even though we hadn't taken a long bike ride, which is just a lame excuse anyway….we both ordered a sweet treat…and didn't have a single millisecond of regret.

  Johnny loves cinnamon, honey and cheese, so it was natural for him to try this very interesting dessert…It was a locally made soft cheese, drizzled with local honey, and topped with special pistachios from Sicily, and a good sprinkling of cinnamon.

  Not a yogurt, not mascarpone, I think it may have been a sheep's cheese. It was quite nice.

  Me? Well, why fool around with it. I just had the most chocolate-y thing on offer. It was served with preserved blueberries in syrup. Not bad….not bad at all….

  I liked it very much, and we dipped into each others plates and mixed stuff up even. A great combo together, in fact.

I can see myself taking this photo in the spoon..hehehehehe.

Oh, and espresso, natch.

  Shockingly, because all I wanted to do was nap, we stopped nearby afterwards and Johnny set up and painted. 

  Go figure. Must have been the espresso.

Painting just below Valiano

  Ok, maybe I did sneak a nap in the car….just a weensy bit. 

  It was a hard day, man.


If you are anywhere near the Lago Trasimeno area, you'll want to visit Piccola Trattoria Guastini!!

Finding Comfort In The Garden July 2014

  I have not been up to writing lately. I'm still in the middle of a pretty significant family ordeal that has me here, there and everywhere…. in body and spirit.

  When I'm at my own home, which is only a couple of days a week at this time, I find myself being soothed and "brought down" a few notches by my time in the garden. 

  I can lose myself for several hours just puttering away at nothing. I'll put my audio book on as my over-taxed brain gets the respite it so desperately needs right now.

  I just had no idea how important this simple time spent weeding, watering or turning the compost pile would be to me at a critical moment in life. 

  So…. I just wanted to take a few moments to share the photos I've taken over the last couple of weeks in the garden. I enjoy getting up close to the flowers, fruits, veggies and foliage. It makes me feel small.

In a good way….

  If you are a regular to this blog, you already know how much I love variegation in my garden.

 The love-fest continues…….

I think I now have five of these wonderful shrubs around the yard.
Coprosma "Marble Queen". Here, I like it against the dark green behind...

My pal Tasha gave me this fern when she divided hers.
The ornamental oxalis was a surprise...

This viburnum looks as though autumn has arrived….

The variegated plectranthus is a beast, and I love it.
Especially here, with the burgundy leaves of the maple.

I know…it's a whole lot of variegation going on here.
But….is that so wrong???
Plus, this combination takes hardly any water in part shade.

  

  In California, we are having major issues with lack of water. I have let so many water-hog plants go. When I first created the garden, we were in a few wet years, and water didn't seem to be as much of a problem. Now, it's crucial to keep the watering under control. Fortunately, most of my garden is pretty well established, so it does ok.

  Like I said, I let plants go if they can't take the new water restrictions….it's not easy, but it is essential.

  I started using more and more simple succulents a few years ago, and now they provide me with enough "babies" to spread all around the garden. I like.

Ahhhhhh…succulents AND variegation!
A match made in garden heaven.

I have posted these bad boys before…but you have no idea how huge they are!
Really, the size of large platters, not plates…platters. They get the benefit of
all the yummy food I give the nearby climbing rose.

My Grandma called these "pork & beans".
Perfect as a border in the rose garden.

A little "garden moment" going on here.
The begonia is another gift from Tasha's garden.

This small aloe was left by a fan of the gallery.
He took some of my babies in exchange. Perfect.

  I'm not big on super fragrant plants… if they are too sweet, it bugs my sinuses.
  I do have a couple of choice plants for the area around the fire pit, which is where our main "hanging out" takes place. This is also where we have the gigantic red pot with the fishies in it. The small bubbling fountain is a nice touch with a glass of wine in the evening.

My most favorite fragrant flower ever…white heliotrope.
The purple is ok, but the white variety is like cookies baking.
Really good cookies.

The white  heliotrope from the picture, above, lives on a small side table between
the lounge chair and this fish pond/pot. A nice spot to read.

  I know that inside, these lilies, below, would make my sinuses explode…. but in the outer reaches of the garden, they send their perfume wafting through on the slightest breeze. 

  I planted them very early on. I got an offer of fifty bulbs for…maybe it was twenty dollars? I couldn't resist. They are super easy, and tough. Over the years, they have dwindled down in number, but I'm glad. I couldn't take too many. They are so powerful!

So pretty! So perfume-y!

  Another favorite of mine, again from Tasha's garden, is a sweet little hardy geranium which takes some shade…and has variegated leaves. It dies back in the winter, and can be overwhelmed easily by other plants, so I keep it safe and sound in a pot….being watched over by Saint Francis. 

  I think it's a nice little scene:

Anyone out there know the name of this little charmer?

  

  Finally, after too many years to remember, I found a spot to put my Geranium pratense "Mrs. Kendall Clark". 

  I have tried it everywhere…and no place worked very well. Either it was too sunny or too much 

shade , not enough water…anyway, she now resides in an old cement sink that came with the house. 

  I think it's big enough to be a perfect container, and she gets good afternoon sun here, too. Plus, I have total control over water and soil conditions in a large container like this.

  Now I remember why I purchased her in the first place- The magnificent flowers, of course!

Oooooooooooohhhh.

Yummy.

My gardening friend, Laurie, gave me a little bromeliad as a hostess gift sometime ago. We had a nice garden visit, I remember, and afterwards, I found this wire basket that was doing a whole lot of nothing in the yard….so I planted this gem in some mossy stuff, watched it get way bigger….and this month she bloomed for the first time! 

Thanks, Laurie!!

I am keeping fingers crossed for lots more spikes of bloom.

  I have a few little bits of this and that, here and there…These are the shrubs I sort of ignore/forget/cut back…..
  Then, bam! They start to knock me out with color.
  This is why I can get so lost in the garden, I suppose. All the surprises and wonders….

My funny "Hebe" that no one knows the name of.
Anyone? It was a cutting from a very old garden I took care of years ago.

She's one tough character, for sure. And she propagates like a dream…..
She is in a few local gardens now.

I don't know why I have this silly fuchsia.
But I sure do like it when she blooms.

Must be because we had a similar type when I was growing up.
Usually in our area, they get mites and need too much water. This one breaks those rules.
I'll keep her!

  With lots of help from the awesome Pedro (best garden helper…ever), my Fuji apple is way happier than before. I am so looking forward to fresh off the tree, sweet, juicy, and crunchy apples. There is no comparison to store bought when it comes to Fuji apples.

  

Yes, please.

Getting very good. I eat an apple every day with my lunch.
These will be such a treat.

  I took photos of my tomato plants just a week or two ago. Then today….

Let's just say….I think we will be having some tomatoes with dinner tonight….

"Supice" tomatoes do well in our area.

I always plant them in good organic soil with lots of my own compost.
I plant in black tubs for extra heat. It's not all that warm here.

These will be picked and eaten before the day is done.
Mmmmmmmm.

Four is a perfect number of tomatoes for tonight.

   Here's the thing….
   My garden brings me all sorts of comfort and joy. Always has…well, when I'm not freaking out about aphids, gophers, skunks, raccoons, snails, earwigs, lack of water…..

But just now, writing this post? I don't know, maybe two or three hours have passed by….? And I've been able to escape all the shit I'm going through. This is huge.

I think I need to remember that writing this funny little bloggy is pretty damn good therapy, too.
I'll be here again sooner, rather than later…..it's just the right medicine for me.