Early Days In Panicale, 2013

  Three days in and we are like a couple of kids on Christmas morning that have gotten everything they asked for.... Just really happy to be back, embraced by the friends we've made over the last two trips. They say third time is the charm, and if that means anything close to this happiness, well, I'll take it.

  I always feel as though I need to go on and on about how we love were we live, and how great our life back home is.... and it's all so true. I can't stop feeling so f-ing lucky to be living this duality. Thank you, AGAIN, powers that be...yeah, yeah, yeah..... get on with it, already.

  So. It's a bit chilly in Panicale, but the past 2 days have been sunny, so all the people in town are soaking up the first warm days of the year, after a long winter. Hey, more rain coming, so we enjoy this sun while we can. All the benches in the piazza touched by the sun are full of locals and tourists alike. We are quick to tell everyone that we brought the sun from beautiful California. 

  Our apartment, Casa del Sarto, made available by our dear friend Katia, is perfect. Steps from the main piazza, it is just what we need. Though we are still in jet-lag, waking at 3am each morning, we sleep like babies anyway. It's so quiet here right now, and in the walls, even more so at night. We awake to the sound of hundreds of birds.

The front door, to Casa del Sarto, our home
for the next couple of months. We are in the top two floors.

The walk to our apartment, from the parking area outside the walls.

  Though there is no garden this year, I did buy some herbs in pots at the Cortona open market on Saturday. They will do just fine on the front stoop, and I love having them for cooking. I already miss having the huge outdoor space we had last year, but it's so great being right inside the walls.
  As soon as it gets a tad warmer (it will, right....?), I'll get a few more pots, some soil, and do some color along the steps. It' s always fun to visit the local nurseries.

I couldn't help buying some herbs for cooking, to put at the front door.

The gate we enter. Take a right and we're almost home.
We park just to the right, outside this main gate.

Looking at the apartment from outside the walls.
We are just to the right of the round tower, top two floors. 

  

  We like to get into our walking routine right away, what with all the massive devouring of pasta and various other carb delights. Plus, the views knock me out over and over again. The morning walk to Paciano right now is, well, cold. But, hey...there are cappuccino waiting on that end, so it's great incentive. 

  Last year, Spring had come strong and early, so by the time we arrived in mid March, there were already wildflowers and buds on all the flowering trees and shrubs. It's pretty much still late winter here now....

  We can still enjoy the big views over Lago Trasimeno, though...

Clear and cold view across the lake.

Lots of olive trees are being pruned right now, not these...yet...

  We are used to walking in the cold, and there isn't any wind, thankfully. But we are bundled up good.

Johnny checking out a favorite shrine.

Very icy and frosty on the shady side of the road.

I have to say, I love the texture, even if it is wicked chilly.

  Just outside of Paciano, I see it again. The garden sink of my freaking dreams. Really? Still right there? Only now with little weeds growing inside? Man oh man, it just isn't fair. So close, and yet so far.

  I fell in love with this apparently abandoned stone sink three years ago. It's still in the same damn spot, just hanging there, waiting for me to figure out: 

1) who owns it, 

2) how I can make it mine.... and most importantly, 

3) how the hell I can get it home.  

  I swear, if it is still here next year, I'm serious. It's going to come home with me. (sure....)

A girl can dream, can't she? Think I'll take that gorgeous shovel, too.

  We have been running around like crazy, getting all we need to settle in: food, art supplies, what not and so forth....so we've eaten out while rushing here and there. But I do enjoy cooking at home, so I've gotten a few choice goodies in the fridge, and begun making the kitchen my own.
  It's working out just fine. Dear Katia brought us some wonderful cheese, and we loaded up at the market, so we are well on our way to full cupboards and fridge.

Our first lunch in Casa del Sarto...cheese thanks to Katia!

  

With artichoke season in full swing, I had to steam up a few to have around. They begin purple, but go greenish as they cook. I like to throw garlic cloves in the steaming water, and drizzle olive oil on top as they steam. Here we just dip the leaves in good olive oil with a little salt...buono.

  I heard this evening that the wild asparagus are starting to come up, too. Hope to find some at the farmers market this week!

First dinner of chokes, pasta tossed simply with caramelized onions and sage in browned butter
and a salad of tomato and arugula, with parmesan. Yum.

  It's coming together, and it's always an adventure. The big plan tomorrow: Find more good wood and kindling for the fireplace. There is rain in the forecast, and I'd love to curl up with a good book and just take a chill-pill for a few hours.
  Basta.

Watching the sun set from a great view point outside Panicale.

Anthony Who? Dinner At Roma Sparita

What can I say..... it's all about the food for me.

 We had the usual semi- hellish economy flight, etc. from San Fran and finally landed in Rome, to be picked up by the delightful Luca...Grazie, Luca!
  Once settled into our super sweet and cozy apartment, we needed to figure out what we wanted to do, and all that. First night we stumbled through a jet-lagged but ultimately deeelish meal at Pizzeria Remo, which I've already written about, and then a walk about. Home to a much needed sleep-a-thon and:

  Day 2 in Rome.... After a few choice activities to be discussed at a later date, and about 10 miles hoofing it all over..we decided to have dinner at Roma Sparita...a place we'd seen Anthony Bourdain rave about on his show "No Reservations" a year or four ago, located in the beautiful Trastevere district. At the time, Mr. Bourdain was adamant about not revealing the name or location of this spot, but we figured it out. Thanks to Google, and it's very addictive "Earth" feature...
  We knew to arrive early, which meant when it opened at 7:30. There were already a few folks seated in the front room, and we were taken into a back room upstairs.

  We were smitten by the presentation of the pasta "cacio e pepe" featured on the "NR" show...fresh pasta tossed with cacio cheese and loads of black pepper. It's a classic Roman dish, and at Roma Sparita, it has been raised to a higher level. I loved the decadence of having the pasta served in a crispy "parmesan bowl". Really, we had....wait for it.... "no reservations" ordering it for each of us.

  First, though, we had to try a couple of yummy starters, especially the fried whole artichoke, and a zucchini flower stuffed, and yes, fried. Both very traditional Roman treats. They were just fine, and we then moved onto the pasta.

A single fried zucchini flower, along with the  Roman specialty
"carciofi alla giudia"....like eating artichoke chips, only better.

  99% of the time we will opt out of ordering the same thing, unless there are no other vegetarian options.  We love to share and trade bites. Who doesn't? In this case, though, we had no problem. This is what we came for, and this is what we both had to order. And, oh, were we happy we did...

 Tagliatelle cacio & pepe, for 2, please!

Yeah, it's ALL that.

  

  The buzz was great, with most diners speaking Italian, and several big tables just having a blast. We took it slow, enjoying every sip and bite, just so happy to be back in Rome, eating fantastic pasta. Johnny was giddy, I mean it. 

"Really? I can eat some bread?" He's one happy artist.

  We were lucky to have come early and grabbed seats, as the place filled up quickly. Mostly locals, but a few of us english speakers, too...

A good crowd on a Tuesday in February.

  We had a fine meal, and made quick pals with Roberto, our gracious server.  Roberto was helpful with the menu, and wasn't put off because we didn't order a "secondo", or meat/fish course. He stopped by the table often, chatting us up just enough to make it special. He spoke english well and had lived for a short time in the states.
  After dinner and a wonderful dessert served with limoncello, I just had to share with him that my Dad made his own limoncello from his very own lemons....I guess Roberto was taken with my story of Dad's awesomeness, because on his next pass by the table, he shared a camera photo of himself with Quentin Tarantino in this very restaurant! W.O.W. We could tell that Roberto knew we would be impressed, and we really were.
  Anthony who? We were righteously blown away, and bowed at his feet. Honestly, it was that f-ing cool. With our bellies full and our hearts as well, I asked for a photo.... Grazie, Roberto!!

Yes, that's me and Roberto...coolest waiter EVER!

  In our slightly inebriated state, I couldn't help but shoot a little footage of the room... it was so fun!

  Fortunately, we had a nice long walk home, to help work off the vino & pasta. Along the way, we enjoyed some night time beauty, Roman Style. 

I just can't help a nice reflective scene...

And then are the semi-spooky, but beautiful shadows.....

  I'll do another post about our daytime adventures in Rome, but for now...like I said, it's all about the food...
Ciao, for now!!

A Revisit To Remo...Certo!

  Because I have dreamed of it for, well...2 years now, it was a must to have our first meal at Pizzaria Remo, the fantastic place we fell in love with back in 2011, just steps from the place we stay in Rome. It was just as good as I remember, and we gorged ourselves into an almost comatose state.

  What can I say.... we starve ourselves the last month before our trips, just so we can eat like little piglets. I know. Don't start.

  

We got ourselves settled in, actually took a short nap, and headed out for an early for Rome, 7pm dinner. We know how this place fills up, even in February.

Check out the pizza dudes on the corner, taking it in before a busy night.

  We knew we had to have a traditional pizza margherita, but wanted to try something new, also. We ordered a plate of potato croquettes, just because I couldn't resist...

Like really fat, crunchy fries.

  Johnny really wanted the bruschetta, which came in a very different form. One slice of toasted bread with tomato, olive oil and garlic...but also with seasoned cannellini beans and some sautéed mushrooms. I liked this a lot, because I can fill up fast with the bread portion of bruschetta, and this way, I could take small bits of everything and mix it up.

  Since I had no idea that the bruschetta would come with mushrooms, I had ordered a plate of roasted mushrooms as a side dish to our pizza. Good choice, anyway, because they were so tasty, and it felt like a nice dish on a chilly night.

Roasted mushrooms with herbs.

  I'm very proud of ourselves that we had the restraint to order only one pizza. After all, there will be many more to come, if not from Remo....

  Our Pizza Margherita was sublime, of course. Burning hot and oozy from the wood fired oven, crispy and drippy all at the same time. And burnt just enough.

These pizzas really are single portion size, very thin, also.

  We had little to zip problem finishing almost every bite. We felt content and, oh-so-happy!

Almost done, we did finish almost every last bite. And dessert.

  There were some fun gals having a hell of a good time at the next table, so we got them to take a picture of us...jet-lagged, weary from walking, but full and very happy.

Maybe a little too happy? No, it's the jet lag, I swear!

  Half the fun at Remo is watching the guys that wait the tables doing their thing. They are a real show, and we loved just watching. We sat for awhile before ordering some odd "gelato" desserts....one was lemon and one was cherry, but I'm really not certain exactly what they were.

   Good, though.

The buzz of Remo.

Our odd but yummy treats.

  After such a big meal, we didn't want to just go home and crash, so we took a nice long walk around the 'hood. Over at MACRO, the contemporary museum nearby, we were so excited to see this massive installation made of bamboo. Lit up at night, and topping out at 80-100 feet high, it was a stunner to view. Plus, we were able to get right up close to it, though it was closed for climbing until regular open hours.

  We vowed to come back to see it and maybe even climb it the next day.

"Big Bamboo" peeking out from MACRO.

I love this. And it's HUGE.

  

  Ready to call it a night, we took the long way back and stumbled on this theatre. Just fun to see what's playing at the local art house in the Testaccio district....

We opted for bed, but wouldn't it have been fun?

  Day one in Rome, done.

Ready, Set, Go.....

  Bills paid- Check

  House sitter lined up- Check

  Gallery help ready- Check

  Garden taken care of- Check

  Bags packed- Almost...

  Extra pounds lost so we can chow down on fantastic pasta & pizza- Check

  I am so ready to hop on that big silver bird and fly away. 

  Though it seems like we were just in Umbria yesterday, the 10 months have been long and longer. So much has been going on the last couple of weeks...all of a sudden it's time to take off.

   I have been so busy that the chance to post anything here has been difficult, for sure, but I have really wanted to. So, this early, early morning, I'm making a little time to share just a few photo memories from (could it be??? Last  year??!?) our Spring, 2012 trip to Umbria. 

  After all, this was the main reason I started my bloggy....so I could relive and review photos, memories, & stories from these wonderful adventures we have been so bloody fortunate to experience. It's as much, if not a whole lot more, for me as it is for friends and family- What I didn't expect was that I would have a small, and growing fan base in Italy, Great Britain, Germany, Australia...what a trip.

  We will soon be sipping cappuccini and wine at Bar Gallo, walking to Paciano, enjoying the views over Lago Trasimeno, taking day trips to new hill towns, making new friends, and soaking up the Umbrian life as much as we can. All the while Johnny will be creating a new body of work, as only he can.

  So, until that plane drops into Rome and we hop on the train.... I'll enjoy sharing these little scenes:

Along the walk to Paciano, behind the beautiful ruin, work still goes on.

An Easter bouquet, collected from the garden and near by.

Johnny getting close and personal with this massive wisteria,  in Castiglione del Lago.
I like the green shirt with all that soft purple..

  I am excited to see the country side again, with all the luscious views and the unreal light. Today it is raining big in Panicale, and we may get some cold, wet, even snowy days...but watching the change as Spring turns on will be magic. The pretty days are so pretty.....

A classic Tuscan scene.

View along our walk back from Paciano.
The olive trees just slay me...

A sunset with wine, near Panicale.

  On the way to San Casciano die Bagni, a small hill town across the valley, we came across this trippy garden/recycle/salvage/antique store. Everything from tiny trinkets to huge farm tables and armoires.
We actually found a great little "perfect green" hanging light fixture, with just enough rust, to hang in our garden. Johnny rewired it when we got home, and we love it. I want to revisit this place.

The great find, now in our garden!

  What I didn't expect to find at this wacky salvage/antique place were:

More Setti Nani!!! (and their odd green friend...)

  Because it will be one of our first stops for dinner, I have to include these shots of yumminess from Il Pellicano, one of the local night spots near Panicale. Pizza to die for, with a crazy atmosphere and all for the best price ever. What's not to love?

Yes, we each order one, and eat the whole dang thing.

  Ok, I need to get out of bed, do the last load of laundry, put all in order for our lovely house sitters (thanks, Anna & James...enjoy the garden!), and call it good to go. And I do mean go!
  I look forward to posting while we are there, so stay tuned. Mmmmmm......pizza...

Just for fun.

Bar Gallo..Our Home Away From Our Home Away

  Ask just about anyone that has spent time in Panicale, and you'll soon know that Bar Gallo is the heart beat of the town. We are both so looking forward to walking through those doors again, to hear the sweet sound of cappuccini being made and the hum of locals chatting about the day ahead, or the night before. For Johnny and I, this really is our place to connect back to our "other life" in Panicale. 

  

Early morning at Bar Gallo. Waiting for the sun.

  The vibe is super relaxed, with a mix of locals popping in to down a quick espresso before work, or  visitors that may choose to hang out for a couple of hours over a glass of wine in the afternoon. You will quickly figure out who the regulars are, with the sing-song of "ciao...ciao" as background music. 

The morning scene. Standing at the bar for a quick espresso, and out the door they go...

 Owners for more than 3 decades, Aldo and Daniela Gallo are hardworking and hands on. Sporting his classic look...v-neck sweater over shirt and tie, Aldo seems to know everyone and what they will order before they speak a word. Daniela, always dressed so beautifully, is radiant, and a warm bit of sunshine. They have both found a little spot in our hearts, honestly. Son Simone and his wife Lorena have a great osteria just across the piazza, Il Gallo Nel Pozzo, which is a must visit.

  I love going by in the late afternoon to tell Aldo where we have been and what we've seen that day. He's always ready with recommendations of things to do and places to go. I like to think that he gets a kick out of some of the off the wall stuff we get into, with the white road adventures and all....he must think we're nuts.

 I wish my language skills were better. They both speak some english, but I just struggle so much with my intentions of real conversation in their native Italian. Try as I may, I tend to be a little lazy on the practice with my Rosetta Stone....my bad.

Aldo & Daniela Gallo...I wish I could tell them how much we appreciate them!

  Most time we spend at Bar Gallo is the leisure time of late afternoon, early evening. Weather permitting, we'll sit outside with a glass or two of wine, either reading, visiting with friends, or in Johnny's case, working on something. 

  Then there's the always entertaining people watching....In such a small place, you really have a chance to watch the day to day dynamics from a court side seat. Some days there won't be anyone around, and other days there may be a festival going on, bringing hoards of people into town. I just love it, and soak it all in.

A very busy day in the piazza.

Not much going on this day, but we're smiling and enjoying every minute.

  Aldo knows our routine by now. He knows it's usually "due bicchieri di vino bianco, per favore". Our glasses of white wine are accompanied by a tasty something. Sometimes chips, or nuts and olives, other times a lovely small plate of bruschetta. 

  I also love Campari on ice, or an Aperol sprizt, on a warm day. These classic bitter aperitifs are favorites of the Italians. Light and refreshing. Mmmmm.

A little treat in the afternoon.

While I read or visit, Johnny works on a gouache. Local kids play in the piazza, their
voices bouncing off the inner walls.

Aldo, in the blue sweater, taking care of a group of visitors.
 We like to watch.

  On cold or wet days, we'll grab an umbrella and hoof it to Bar Gallo, as always. On these days we like to hang out in the back room, where there are couches and big tables to sit around. We'll sometimes bring books and dominoes, for long, leisurely stays. Lunch can be an option, too. When the weather is bad, we don't drive around as much. We like to stay in town.

Johnny enjoys his latte enough to add a watercolor of it to the sketch book.

  The back room is a great place to just relax, away from the busy counter service area, and with outstanding views from the big back french doors. We'll tuck in sometimes at night, after we've had dinner at home, or on a cold day, for a couple of hours sometimes. It's a great place to meet up with friends, or make new ones.
  Then there are times when it's just us, playing dominoes. And no one else around. It's all good.

Ready for business.

  After many, many stops for coffee or wine, Johnny asked to see a menu one day. Who knew? Aldo makes an awesome salad for us, the vegetarians!  

Zucchini, tomato, fresh mozzarella and walnuts, drizzle of balsamic reduction...Thanks, Aldo!

And a perfect bruschetta, crunchy bread, just enough good olive oil, salt and dried oregano.
Yum.

  But the real treat? The treat we can't wait to have again...of course it's the basic, wonderful and addictive as all hell...cappuccino.


  Aldo, Daniela... Ci vedremo presto!!