Dinner: Il Gallo Nel Pozzo...Again!

We don't eat out for a formal dinner as much as we did when we were first coming to Italy. Sure, we'll go for pizza or a quick lunch...but we enjoy cooking at home these days.

That being said, we really wanted to revisit a favorite spot in the village...Il Pozzo Nel Gallo. We've eaten here many times, but not recently, so we made it a priority to dine here as soon as possible on this trip. 

We really adore Simone and Lorena, the owners, and it's always a treat to be in their care. Simone is a perfect "front of the house" fellow, and Lorena does her own magic in the kitchen. We were not disappointed...They know we are vegetarians, and they take time to point out dished suited to us. In fact, they are willing to make changes to help us navigate the wonderful menu.

The first course on this evening was an interesting one...an artichoke that had been cooked fully and stuffed with a perfectly poached egg, served with a cream of Jerusalem artichoke and also super crispy chips of Jerusalem artichoke...This was a flavorful delight, and the mixed textures were just wonderful...The poached egg was done just right and the artichoke itself was cooked to a perfect point. It all came together beautifully...The choke was the edible 'bowl' for the egg! Fun and tasty!

The presentation was amazing!

Simone let us know that the gnocchetti dish of the evening was normally served with duck, but they were fine serving it without. Johnny was all in, as the gnocchetti were served in a 'cacio e pepe' sauce. Basically, a  cheese and black pepper sauce. Creamy and spicy, with little clouds of potato dumplings... I mean, come ON! It was a very good dish.

We kind of fought over bites...

My dish was a typical "umbrichelli", a regional hand rolled pasta made from just flour and water. The menu just said it would be served with a variation of tomato sauce. On this evening, the sauce was sweet and deep with flavor from oven roasted cherry tomatoes and what I would find out was "tomato dust". Dried and pulverized tomato wonderfulness! Honestly, it was one of the best pasta dishes I've ever eaten.

I have never come so close to licking a plate in public. That dust was everything. And the pasta was perfectly al dente.

I'm thinking my date was pretty happy!
A bit jet lagged still, but happy!

We asked about "contorni" or  vegetable side dishes, and Simone told us they had a mixed veg dish we might enjoy, so we each ordered one as our last course. I am so glad we did. 

This dish was a total surprise. We expected the usual grilled mixed veg, or something like that. What we had was so different and so good...

Four elements... Marinated purple cabbage, sauteed chickory, broccoli and porcini mushrooms.

Where do I start? The broccoli (far left)  was cooked to creaminess and melted in our mouths. I believe the chickory (far right) was pan braised, maybe with some garlic and lemon...typical and very good. The purple cabbage was marinated, I'm thinking. It was great...just perfectly crunchy and fresh. 

But those porcini...in the middle...I'm destined to recreate this for Johnny and myself. I must. Thinly sliced...maybe marinated in olive oil with a bit of salt and a bit of garlic...or not? They were almost like jerky...mushroom jerky. Not so chewy, but a texture I loved at first bite. For vegetarians, texture can be everything, and these mushrooms were everything.

I'm not sure if it's just that the products here are so fresh and good, or the kitchen is just so inventive, or it's the Italian vibe...Whatever. This was a perfect meal on a perfect evening.

We had to pop our heads into the kitchen to thank Lorena, and met the two new chefs, Karina and Matteo. It's always a joy to give thanks to those who have prepared your meal. Thanks, Again! You all rocked our world last night!

We also were happy to see a painting again that Johnny had given Simone's parents some time ago, now here in the restaurant. Johnny has always loved this piece, and we actually sat right under it! So fun to see this painting of the village in such a nice spot!

 

Thanks again to the folks here at Il Gallo Nel Pozzo.

If you find yourself in Panicale, Umbria, make a reservation! You won't regret it.

We look forward to another visit soon!

Pasta For Two

  Last spring when we were here in Umbria, I bought a pasta making board and a nice long pasta rolling pin, called a 'matterello' in Italian. I weenied out and never used them....

  This year, Johnny threatened to leave me FOREVER...if I didn't try them out, so  finally did, and the results were pretty damn awesome.

  My first try at tagliatelle here at The Nut with said instruments were a solid B+... Maybe even an A!

Just enough ingredients for two portions...2 eggs and 200 grams of flour.

Flour ready for eggs on my wooden pasta board.

Two farm fresh eggs from just down the way...

Mix it all up with fork...then start kneading by hand.

  I learned the hard way last year...don't knead the dough too long! I tried to make cavatelli, and it ended up like little rocks, once cooked. 

  This time, I just kneaded the dough for about five minutes, then let it rest for only another 5-10 minutes. Also, I didn't put it in the fridge to rest, just on the counter.

Good to let rest.

  I rolled the dough out really thin with my rolling pin. Thin enough to "flutter' when  lifted a corner and blew under it. This is a secret I learned watching a zillion episodes of 'Pasta Grannies' on You Tube...A must watch!

Me in my small but mighty Umbrian kitchen.
Pasta just about ready to cut. See my cool pasta board?

  Next, I floured the dough so it wouldn't stick, then I rolled one side towards the other side, then rolled the other side. 

  Get it?

  Next, I cut it in strips...

  Then you 'fluff' the strips out and dust them with more flour so they don't stick...

Pasta!!!

  I made four little pasta nests, and set them on a clean dish towel to dry out a bit.

Tagliatelle!

  Ta-Da! Perfect with a nice sauce. In this case, a store bought red pepper and parmesan sauce that was so perfect with this pasta.

  I have to say, the pasta took way less than an hour to make, start to finish, including clean-up. In fact, I made an even better second batch this evening. I'm thrilled to finally be doing this again!
  A perfect way to kill an hour while waiting for a storm to pass over! Plus, Johnny was so happy.
  Yay!

Trees And Light And An Afternoon Drive

  It has been a rough first week here in Umbria. We are so happy to be back, but we haven't been able to really get out and do the things we normally do...morning walks, painting, taking day trips...the weather has been a bit harsh, to say the least.

  Honestly, this is our first experience with so much rain and cold weather in March. I think we've been lucky in the past. It's a learning experience, for sure, and I think we're doing pretty well, considering (considering we are wimpy Californians who cringe at weather that isn't between 64-75 degrees. No higher, no lower, thank you).

  We are looking forward to a couple of sunny days coming up, though it will still be quite chilly. I don't mean to complain, I'm enjoying having meals with our friends and stopping into Bar Gallo every evening. It's the little things we do love the most. Plus....I've become wicked good at starting a fire in the fireplace, and grilling in that same fireplace.

  During a short break between rainstorms yesterday, while Mr. J was napping in front of the fire, I decided I couldn't take it any more and headed out for a little walk. Come rain or shine, I needed to move! No big deal, just a walk to a nearby place where they sell fruit and vegetables. I needed a few things... it was a win-win. The sky was pretty dramatic, so I brought the camera. I was happy I did...

  I just love seeing umbrella pines and Italian Cypress trees planted together, and I had fun taking photos of my favorite local planting nearby...

Storm passing through I was walking.
A long view of the tree studded lane leading to my destination.

The rain soaked fields are getting to maximum hydration, I think.

  

 I was lucky that the storm blew by and the sky opened to blue for a few moments to get some nice shots as I walked. It's amazing how fast these little cells of rain tear through the valley. One moment it's almost black, then it will clear for a minute, then it's pouring rain with thunder and lightning. I've gotten used to it.

  Always carry an umbrella, and expect to get wet at some point.

Heading down the lane...

...and heading back up after shopping for veggies.
I like this shot very much. A tunnel of pines and cypress.

A favorite farmhouse along the way, with perfect Italian cypresses.
This is a classic scene

Another small scene of the cypress and pines together, just up the road.

 
  As I was heading back to The Nut, a car pulled up next to me, and there was Johnny, all rested up and ready to take a late afternoon drive. Bless his heart, he couldn't bear it... thinking of me out there walking all by my lonesome self. I was happy to see him. The sun had popped out and it looked to be gorgeous, so we finally got to do a little early evening drive around the area.

In another spot, more pines and cypress.
 Just beautiful in this unexpected light.

More brilliant evening light with trees.
And there is Panicle way in the background...

  I am anxious to get out and about more over the next couple of days. We just hope the forecast is correct, and we'll get some real sunshine for a while.

Panicle in the early evening light yesterday.
The sun pops out for just a moment, so I try to be ready for it.

  Hey, it's all good, and we wouldn't want to be anywhere else right now. This past year has been stressful, and taking an afternoon drive in this beautiful countryside is much needed medicine.
  I'll take whatever we can get, believe me, and am always, always... filled with gratitude to be so lucky in this enchanted life of ours.

A Day Or Two

  

  Yesterday, we were like a couple of kids on Christmas morning...we woke up to a sunny morning!  Cold, yes, but actual sun and the chance to take a morning walk. Perfection.

  Since it was Sunday, we had to get some good bread from the nearby bakery (only open on Wednesday and Sunday), so we decided to get up and out early and walk for our bread.

  I thought this sight along the way was good enough for a photo...

The local spot to buy wood.
Literally busting at the seams...or so it seemed.

That's a whole lotta wood.

 

Further along, a nice view of the countryside...

Typical early March in our part of Umbria.
Beautiful.

  Afterwards, we decided to take a drive to Chiusi, a nearby town,  just to walk around the historic center.

   We'd never visited the public park, so this was also a nice treat.

Johnny finally found the perfect table set he wants
for playing dominoes. Now how to get it back to California?

Pretty cool artifacts throughout the park.

  We enjoyed a stop for wine, then headed over to Lago di Chiusi to see how it was looking with all the recent rains.  Beautiful, me thinks...

So nice to see the hills turning green.

Still winter, but so beautiful anyway.

  

Johnny wanted to stop and do some drawing, so we pulled over. I ended up dozing off as I tried to read. I think we are still catching up from jet lag.

I got the shot, then mozied back to the car for some shut eye.

  

  

There is an amazing and very large scale nursery in this area. They specialize in full grown container plants. I mean HUGE specimens, ready to be trucked/flown anywhere in the world, it seems.

  I've always wondered who buys these lovely trees and shrubs, all ready to turn an empty space into a full grown landscape overnight...

The larger plants are easily fifteen to twenty feet tall.

  Well, last year we made friends with a local gardener and his lovely wife. He is taking care of the garden of a very famous pop star who recently moved into the area. Our new gardener friend told me that the fellow wanted privacy from the fans who found out where his new home is, so could there possibly be a way to make a screen of shrubs? Big shrubs, mind you...

  I guess when money is no object, and you are tired of being spied on and having people trying to snap pictures of you and your pals in the pool...this is where you shop for plants.

  Nice! My question was answered. 

  Today, we are back to a grey, rainy day. Not too bad, though. It's warmer and there is no wind, so we  went to the Monday market first thing this morning for veggies and such, came home to make lunch and sit in front of the fire. Mr. J is asleep next to me while  I write this. I think the tasty lunch and a couple of glasses of wine are to blame.

  And the fire...the magic of the fire.

Some of that wonderful bread we bought yesterday goes on the grill.
We just can't get enough of this simple pleasure.

Salad fixings, fresh ricotta and little tomatoes from today's market.

I tossed the tomatoes in a hot pan with olive oil, garlic, spring onions and thyme.
It was warmed just enough to 'pop' the tomatoes a bit.

Yeah, life is good in front of the fire.
Now it's nap time for me, too.

A Chilly Return, Umbria 2018

  Back home at The Nut! Seems like a lot longer than three months have gone by, but that's when we were last here...and we thought it was cold then! 

  Hehehehe...ehhhhhhhh. It be very cold here now. BUT...that's ok. We are always happy to be back, come rain, wind , crippling heat...it's all part of this wacky adventure we've gleefully chosen to embark on.

  So, a couple of firsts:

  1) Norwegian Airlines non-stop from Oakland to Rome. Loved it. No four hour layover in Frankfurt! But, our flight was about two hours late taking off , because of weather on the Rome end.

  Still, the flight was nice...admittedly, we bumped ourselves up to premium, since I have a boat load of miles saved up. Sweet. Another first, to be able to practically lay down. I actually slept most of the way.

  2) Ummm. SNOW! Yes, snow. We knew it would be here, we just didn't know how different it makes everything.

  It's cold! It's wet! It's dangerously icy on really steep steps! 

  But it sure is pretty....

  Being a couple of krazy kids from the central coast of California, we don't see a whole lotta snow in our day to day life. So forgive us for being sort of spellbound by the experience.

  (Snow...jeez, it's just so, so... snowy..!)

  For instance, this morning we had to walk down our road to the main paved road to catch a taxi to take us to pick up rental car. We were too late from the flight delay to get it yesterday.

  Anyway, our 'morning walk' was quite interesting. We took each step down the stairs as though our lives depended on it, because they did. One slip and it would be all over. Once on the dirt road, we still were faced with slippery bits of ice along the way down.

  Big Fun!

Watch it, kiddo.

Looks chilly, and it was.

I hope the olive trees are ok.

  We went to pick up the car, and it was being 'de-snowed' by this fellow.

Snow on the door handle...hehehe.
We are such neophytes.

  Driving back from getting the car, we took it nice and slow, like everybody else. Almost. How can people drive so freaking fast in the snow? Are they coo-coo?

  We drove like the old people we sort of are.

  Giggling.

  Some quick shots out of the car window...

About ten minutes after I took this,
Panicle disappeared behind low clouds.

It's pretty...

  We needed food & cash, and cappuccini, so we did head into town.

The view from the window at Bar Gallo.

  It was a ghost town...so quiet. Also, it was scary to try to walk around. The streets were really icy and we had to be super careful with every step. I wonder how the local older folks get around on these rare snowy days...

  We stopped into the bank, Bar Gallo, Linda's and Yolanda's. Good to go.

  The safest way around took us past favorite views...only snowier.

  That was it for driving anywhere. Usually on our first full day, we take a long drive all around the area, visiting our favorite spots.

  Today, we just wanted to get back to The Nut to hunker down.

Up through the front garden.

We're cold, but happy!

Lots of trees covered in ice.

It will soon be warm, I promise...
Poor Nemo & Tiger Lily, the resident kitties.
They do sleep inside at night, but roam around in the day.

All the tilled fields look like this.

  After getting some wood chopped, and having a little lunch, my seriously insane hubby decided he needed to paint these rare moments of snow before it warms up. I thought he was nuts, but the painting turned out really nice, and he enjoyed it completely.
  There will be a post soon about this painting on his blog really soon.

Capturing the winter scene.

  While Mr. J painted, I fixed a big pot of soup. This is what you do when it's cold outside. I read it somewhere...
  I also kept the fire burning, because we wanted to grill some bread for simple bruschetta, which I must say, came out stupendously well.
  Is it the bread? The olive oil? The parmesan..? It's everything...Being back, being happy, being hungry and just being here.

The char was so damn perfect on these.

Johnny went for tomatoes on his...

...I just wanted olive oil, garlic rub salt & pepper, and the best parmesan in the world.

First bites, baby.

The soup was a tasty delight, too.
Plus, there's a bunch left over. Yum.

  Now, it's about 9pm, and we have both hit the jet lag wall, so we'll let the fire die down, put on our long johns and say Buona Notte, dear readers.