Pasta For Two

  Last spring when we were here in Umbria, I bought a pasta making board and a nice long pasta rolling pin, called a 'matterello' in Italian. I weenied out and never used them....

  This year, Johnny threatened to leave me FOREVER...if I didn't try them out, so  finally did, and the results were pretty damn awesome.

  My first try at tagliatelle here at The Nut with said instruments were a solid B+... Maybe even an A!

Just enough ingredients for two portions...2 eggs and 200 grams of flour.

Flour ready for eggs on my wooden pasta board.

Two farm fresh eggs from just down the way...

Mix it all up with fork...then start kneading by hand.

  I learned the hard way last year...don't knead the dough too long! I tried to make cavatelli, and it ended up like little rocks, once cooked. 

  This time, I just kneaded the dough for about five minutes, then let it rest for only another 5-10 minutes. Also, I didn't put it in the fridge to rest, just on the counter.

Good to let rest.

  I rolled the dough out really thin with my rolling pin. Thin enough to "flutter' when  lifted a corner and blew under it. This is a secret I learned watching a zillion episodes of 'Pasta Grannies' on You Tube...A must watch!

Me in my small but mighty Umbrian kitchen.
Pasta just about ready to cut. See my cool pasta board?

  Next, I floured the dough so it wouldn't stick, then I rolled one side towards the other side, then rolled the other side. 

  Get it?

  Next, I cut it in strips...

  Then you 'fluff' the strips out and dust them with more flour so they don't stick...

Pasta!!!

  I made four little pasta nests, and set them on a clean dish towel to dry out a bit.

Tagliatelle!

  Ta-Da! Perfect with a nice sauce. In this case, a store bought red pepper and parmesan sauce that was so perfect with this pasta.

  I have to say, the pasta took way less than an hour to make, start to finish, including clean-up. In fact, I made an even better second batch this evening. I'm thrilled to finally be doing this again!
  A perfect way to kill an hour while waiting for a storm to pass over! Plus, Johnny was so happy.
  Yay!

Travel Tip:Taking The Train!

  Okey-Dokey….

  Getting ready for our trips is half (well…1/8th) of the fun as the trips themselves.

  I love going over my notes from the past year, looking through photos, recharging my Italian phone..it's just the thing to put me in the travel mood.

  As I was flipping through photos, I came across a series I took at the train station last year. I had decided that a travel-tip post on taking the train would/could be helpful to someone. I know I would have benefitted from one, back in the day.

  There are most likely YouTube videos, etc. that go over this stuff, but what the heck. I hope someone out there gets some good info from this….

  Our local train station, just a twenty minute drive from Panicale, is in Chiusi. It's a great spot, halfway between Rome and Florence. We can take a day trip to either of these standout cities, and be back by evening, no problem. 

  We love having the option to hop the train instead of dealing with the stressful city driving and nightmarish parking. In most cases, the train station is a short bus ride, or an easy walk to where ever we want to go, so it's a no-brainer.

  First, decide where and when you want to go. Trains run all day, and you can often have several choices of departure times. Go into your train station, and find the displays of departures and arrivals. Even small stations without an actual attendant have these posted, with machines to purchase the tickets.

A typical glass cased "departure" schedule for this particular day.

Arrivals are on the other side of the case...

  So, they break down the day by hour, and it's on a twenty four hour clock, thirteen being one o'clock in the afternoon, etc.

   On this day, we were going to Bologna. We looked at the times and stops, above photo, and found Bologna was on the train that was ending it's trip at Trieste Centrale. 

  In the photo, below, we can see what's up. We are just looking at the "top" box.

  It would depart our station at 12:10(on the upper left), stopping at each station listed in this box, so the first stop after us would be Arezzo. We also see the train number is TI  588.

 Anyhow, here you can see that the Bologna stop is the fourth stop, at 14:43(2:43). Then the train moves on to Ferrara, etc.

  You can also see that the train leaves from "BIN 3"on the upper right. This is "binario" three, or "track" three. 

It also gives days of the week it runs,
or whether it runs on holidays...

If you have questions, the attendants are helpful. I try to do as much as I can on my own, just because.

You can go straight to the window and get it all done, though.

Above the window it says
"Tickets , Reservations"

  I like to use the ticket machines. Especially when there is a long line at the windows. It's so easy. Choose a language, pick your destination, choose a time and pay. Either with cash, or a credit card. Below, there are two machines. The one on the right only takes credit cards, the other takes both cash or credit cards.

  Don't get tricked into letting someone "help" you. This may happen in the bigger stations…some guy or gal will help you figure the machine out, help you buy your tickets
  Then they want to be paid for their service. These people are basically harmless, but I always get a little bugged when they close in on me. I just say "No, grazie" in a firm voice.

The lines can get really long at bigger stations, like Florence and Rome. This is when I choose the machines. They are easy, and take you through, step by step.

  The ticket, below, shows the full price for two adults(top right), when it leaves, where it is going, and when you will arrive at your destination(Chiusi/Chiancino - Bologna Centrale).

  In the middle section, you will see the train number, 588, which car the seats are in, 005, the car is a second class car(no big deal) and the seat numbers, 55 and 56. We also see that we have window seats, "finestrino". 

  This is a train ride with reserved seats, in a certain car. Sometimes, it's just a general ticket and you can sit wherever there is a seat available.

Here is the return ticket, with all info.

  Next, we check the big board…which can be really big and full of trains coming and going…Here it's a small local station, with few tracks to worry about. 

  Give yourself time to figure it all out, if possible. It gets easier each time, honest.

  Ok. The schedule board shows us the Trains(treni) in Partenza(departing). 

  On the left is a list of trains departing, with the final destination. In our case, Trieste Centrale. It stops in Bologna along the way, at 12:10. 

  On the right, just out of the photo(sorry), it tells us this train is coming in and leaving from track(BIN) 3.

  Now that we have our tickets, and know where we need to jump on the train, and know what time it leaves…we can RELAX.

  Train stations have full on cafe/bars. With snacks.

It's never too early for a glass of  Proseco!

  

We aren't done yet, though….

DON'T FORGET TO VALIDATE YOUR TICKET BEFORE YOU GET ON THE TRAIN.

  You will see little machines like this in the ticket office, as well as near the tracks. Just stick the ticket in the slot thing and it will get "punched" and validated.

Some of the models are yellow. These are pretty new.
You can get fined if you don't validate.

  Seems there are almost always stairs. Look for a small elevator to make things easy, if you have big bags to carry.

Elevator at our local station.

Here's where we need to be:
Track 3, going to Trieste at 12:10.

Mr. J loves a train ride.
Note the signs. Track 3 and 2, on the other side.
Also, again the destination and time confirmed.

Another validation box, in case you forgot inside.

  There will be big station signs as you get close to each stop. Another way to know when to get off. Sometimes they announce it, but not always.

Our local station.

Here she comes….

We find our car…..

We find our seats, 55 & 56, next to the window.
Be careful, each car has the same numbered seats…make sure you
are in the correct car. We have made this mistake…no big deal, you just move.

  Now we just make ourselves comfy and enjoy the ride.

  I bring a book, some munchies and always water. 

  Hopefully the company is nice.

  Can't wait to get back on the train!
  See you soon-

Some Travel Tips

  Over the last decade or so, Johnny & I have made many trips to Italy and Paris. Are we "World" travelers? No way, but we have some pretty good experience with the places we do visit.
  Often friends, or friends of friends will stop into the gallery to pick my little pea brain, and I'm always happy to help with any travel questions I can answer. Hells bells, I'll do anything to talk about Italy for ten minutes.....

  So with this in mind, I thought I'd hand over some of my best tips. Besides, as we are getting ready to take off again, I'm neck deep in doing some of this stuff now, and I'm in the "very excited to go" mode.

  Traveling off season is great in many ways...rates for lodging are much less, and can be negotiated sometimes. Airfares are better, too. There are little to no lines at the "biggie" tourist sites, and hardly anyone around at the smaller sites. In late February 2011, when we went to St. Peters in Rome, it was maybe a 15 minute line, same with the Colosseum. There was just no one around. Downside is that the weather can be "iffy". I'll say it right here and right now...If I'm going to be dealing with cold, rain, or snow, I'll be happy to deal with it in Italy. Or Paris.

  Off season these days means winter-early spring, for the most part. Fall is still busy, but things crank down in November-March, to mid April.

  On the subject of weather...pack a few key pieces, and plan to layer. If you have a good, warm coat, wear it onto the plane and stow it in the overhead. It takes up no room in your luggage this way. Worse case, you may need to pick up a sweater or something in Italy. We check out the farmers markets, where there always seems to be several tables of used clothes. I've gotten some awesome cashmere sweaters, and Johnny bought a great corduroy coat for just a few euros at these "thrift stores" on wheels...

  

The 2 euro table..clothes are clean, and start out folded......just look carefully.

  You never know what you will find. I have bought a coat at the farmers market, worn it for the entire trip, still in good shape, I leave it behind in the "Red Cross" type box that most larger towns have. It's good all around. But we find things we want to bring home too, of course. And we sometimes buy new stuff. It's Italy, for gods sake. Land-O-Fashion......

  We try to pack as light as possible, but always bring too much. This year will be different! (riiiight....)

Because we are staying in one place, it's easy to overpack..we know we won't be huffing the bags all over the country. Still, I want and need to travel with less. Pack or wear one pair of really comfortable walking shoes; this is a must, fashion be damned.

  Airfares are my favorite game. Many of you have credit card "miles" available to use, but we don't, except every few years when we have added up enough to get 2 roundtrip tickets. So, I spend a few minutes every week, mid-week mostly, checking prices. I like Orbitz. I like Lufthansa/United. I like as few stops as possible, which means one stop....in my price range. I may not book the very cheapest flight, but I book the best one for us. 

  This is huge....if you book a flight that leaves before March 31st, you stay in the golden zone of cheaper rates. So, you can still totally enjoy "April In Paris", you'll just get there a day or 2 early. Also, plan to fly out and return on a Tuesday or Wednesday. The flights are always less. 

  I start cruising Orbitz months before a trip, everyday sometimes, just to get a good idea of the going rate. Then some awesome "lowest price ever" will pop up, and I'll grab it. I've learned the hard way that these super prices may be up for only a day, or an hour...Be ready to make the commitment, because these most often don't have refund possibilities.

  I usually book the flight, and then look for the place to stay, but not always. It all seems to work out, if you plan ahead.

  For Panicale, we like to fly into and out of Rome or Florence. Upon arrival, we take a taxi to the train station and hop on for Chiusi, which has a small but mighty station. The car renatl place isn't far, and it works out great. Chiusi is perfect for Southeastern Tuscany and the Lago Trasimeno area of Umbria.

  I like to use Kemwel for our long term car rental. Again, the longer you stay off season, the better rate you can get. (all available websites for these tips will be at the end of this post)

  We always get international drivers licences before we go. You can get them at AAA, where they will take the photo and everything. Good for 1 year, they are nice to have, especially in Italy. I never drive, but get one in case of an emergency. The extra insurance for a second driver keeps us with just Johnny behind the wheel. Fine with me, but this may be the year I give it a try. If I do decide to drive some, I can add the insurance at the rental pick-up spot. Figure an extra 8-10 bucks a day, with a maximum of 150 euro/month.

  We pick up the car in Chiusi because we are both weenies and don't want to deal with driving in and out of the cities we fly into. There you have it. It's an easy train ride to the small town, and a 15 minute drive to Panicale after that. Sweet.

  We always ask for the small car option, but sometimes they give us a big one anyway, for the same price. Last trip:

What we asked for, and eventually got.

  

What they gave us, and took back.

  It worked out, because we switched to the smaller "Cinque Cento" after it became available, about 3 weeks into the trip. Perfect, as we had guests that first part of the trip and we had plenty of room for 4.

  Driving around the area we stay in is not bad. Fun, really. Mostly small country roads, with easy to read signage. We even hop onto the A1 Autostrada for long trips. Once you figure out where you need to hop off, and how to pay the "usage"tolls, it's great. And you can get to places really fast.
  I love the Slow Travel website(see below) for their easy to understand tips on driving in Italy. You can get a bunch of good info on this site. Photos, too, of situations you may run into on the road. I have a couple of shots of typical signs below. The first is the type you will come across all over the countryside, just giving the town name and distances. The second photo shows several different types of signs. You soon learn which you can ignore and which you should not.

Typical blue signs showing the way and the kilometers to 4 towns, plus the way(in green) to the Autostrada.

Here, we have the blue sign for a teeny town, 2 black signs showing places that grow and/or sell
olive oil, a brown sign for an agriturismo (family farm turned B&B) that offers lots of things to do,
and the white sign for a fantastic place to eat, "Il Casale" that also has a room or 2 to stay in.

These red & white beauties are signs to mark registered hiking trails. 

  As for lodging, and the always asked "How did you find your place?", I like VRBO. Vacation Rental By Owner. It's how we found Panicale, and all the wonderful people in Panicale. 

  This being said, if you are going to Panicale in particular, there are websites below that are Panicale local run. The rentals we stay at are found on these websites, as well as VRBO, but we love our Panicale friends, and want to promote them. 

  I've used VRBO for Rome, Paris, Venice...and never been disappointed. It's a good place to start for anywhere in Europe or the US, or anywhere, really.

  We like to rent apartments close to or in the town walls. We like to walk and be a part of the community on a day to day basis. Sometimes we won't drive for days.

  We like a place that has a washing machine. Dryer not important. Most Italians dry on racks, or outside lines. Energy is super expensive, so live like the locals and air dry when you can. Turn out lights, and put on an extra sweater if you are cold. Which is why we like having a fireplace, when possible. 

  A TV is fun, because it's a kick to watch Italian reality shows and we love the 24 hour fashion stations that show all the "catwalks" of whatever season it is. Oh, and we watch the news, of course. And really bad sic-fi/monster movies. What can I say. 

  Wi-Fi has become important, as we are doing business from home while we travel. We bring a laptop. Last year I rented a thing called a "Mi-Fi", which gave us a wi-fi hotspot in a house where there wasn't one. This year we have a place with wi-fi, so that's great. I set up video chat for my parents, and love it. The 9 hour time difference means while we pop open the wine for happy hour, they are having a morning cup of coffee. Awesome.

  I found the "mi-fi" on the same site that I found my Italian phone. I bought a cell phone that is only for Italy. I have my own Italian phone number, so I can call locally, or with an international calling card for calling the States. Plus, anyone from the states can call me, if they need to. You can rent one of these, but since we go every year, it's nice to own one. Plus, did I mention I have my own Italian phone number?

 Just sounds so good.

  Let's see....oh! We only bring an emergency credit card. For emergencies. We save like crazy all year, so everything is paid for as we go. Nothing goes on the card that doesn't get immediately paid off. And that's just the big stuff, like airfare, so I can get the miles. 

  I put an amount that I think we will need for living, plus a little extra, into our local Credit Union accounts that we can draw from with our ATM cards. Best exchange rates, and you will find ATM's everywhere these days. Grab some euros in the first European airport you stop in, to get yourself started.  Make certain that you let your bank card holders know where and when you are going, and for how long. They can put a stop on your account, if they think someone is using your card in a foreign country. This is super important. They will "flag" the accounts, so there should be no problems.

  We always come back with some euros to start the next years trip with.

  I always make 3 copies of:

  Passports

  Reservations Hotel/Air/Airport Shuttle, Etc.

  Vouchers/Car, GPS, etc

  Drivers Licences

  Medical Cards

  I like to write down the numbers from the backs of our credit and debit cards, with the numbers of the cards themselves...in case of loss, etc. Once we did need to unlock our cards, and having these numbers made it all very easy. I keep one with me, and stash the other one.

  I make 3 packets with all the other stuff I've copied. One goes into each carry on, and one stays right in my magazine/purse bag.

  I love to print out our boarding passes the night before our flight. I can't imagine why more people don't take advantage of this massive time saving opportunity. You get to skip the big lines....just drop off your luggage in the special drop off line (just for people who pre-printed the boarding pass), and go straight to security. You can do this starting 24 hours before take-off. After the first time you do this, you will never go back to the old way. The kiosks for self check- in are easy, too. Be brave, and go for it. There is always an official person to help, near by.

  We like to plan to spend the last night or 2 in the city we fly out of. It's a good way to get ready for reality, and also less stressful with the "getting to the airport on time" situation. Let the hotel desk know you will need a taxi, if they don't have a shuttle service. On either end, we are happy to be early at the airport. There is always great people watching, and you can grab a cappuccino. We can always amuse ourselves for an extra hour, or even 2. It's all part of the adventure.

  I know there are lots of things I'm forgetting, but these are just a few things I've picked up along the way. Hopefully, there is a helpful tip or two in here for you.

 Here are websites I like to use:

 FLIGHTS: 

 http://www.orbitz.com/flights/      

                                                 

 CAR RENTALS:  

 http://www.kemwel.com/     

PHONE//WI-FI RENTAL/SALES:

http://www.cellularabroad.com/

      

 PANICALE RENTALS:  

 http://www.ciaotrasimeno.com/  

MORE PANICALE RENTALS:                                                                                 http://www.italianholydays.info/default_en.aspx

VRBO RENTALS:

http://www.vrbo.com/

SLOW TRAVEL:

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/driving/introduction.htm