Eating in Venice

Johnny and I are nothing if not creatures of habit....especiallywhen it comes to eating out.

This goes for Venice, as well. In fact, I think one of the main reasons we return is to eat at our favorite spots.

We are so bad, we'll go twice each trip to these places before trying someplace new.

So, here we go again....and spoiler alert!!! We tried a NEW SPOT! Dun-dun-dunnnn.

Let's not get too crazy... we'll start with an old favorite first.

Within easy walking distance, we love Ca' D'oro alla Vedova.

Known for fried meatballs (polpette), this place teams with people in the early evening, lining up to grab a small glass of wine and a few polpette. You MUST reserve for a sit down dinner.

Johnny is so happy! We finally got to sit at the little table 
in it's own sweet alcove...

I'm just happy to be off my feet and with a glass of wine!

We had company at the table, which was nice.

Ok, there is a running theme through our meals here in Venice. We have found the best places for seasonal vegetable platters, and this is one of them.

We each order a plate, followed by whatever pasta looks good.

I love the big white beans with onions, and need to make them more at home...

A bit of bread to soak up the tasty oil...

Vedova, as we call it, always does a nice vegetarian lasagna, and it's often a green lasagna, which I prefer.

We both ordered this for our main dish.

A most generous portion, filled with peas and greens.
Always silky and delicious.

Done.

 

Another fave place is La Bitta, in the Dorsoduro neighborhood. A long hike, but we like to walk. Also, after dinner, it's lovely walking at night in Venice.

Here, we just ordered the two dishes that were vegetarian on this night. The menu changes daily, and often there isn't much to choose from, but what is available is always yummy.

Johnny chose the grilled cheese (sort of like halloumi), served with roasted and grilled vegetables.

I ordered the gnocchi with a grated smoked cheese. They were served with a subtle sauce that had some sweetness...I'm thinking pear.

Both dishes were very good, and the walk home was lovely. 

Of course we stop for treats during the day...

Cicchetti bars abound in Venice, and you can get a tasty bit of heaven all day. 

We shared this little plate of veggie polpette and crostini
with soft cheese, radicchio and walnuts.

More of the same, on another day.
Fried eggplant, polpette and peas.
Johnny loves the peas!

We always stop for a "tramazzini", which is soft bread with lots of mayo and stuffed with whatever. 

We'll get a few and share them.

You down them in about 3 bites, but they keep you going for hours!

I'm not too proud to admit that we will have these lovely and dangerous treats with
a glass of wine and call it lunch. 

Ok, here's the new new spot. 
"Trattoria da Alberto". 

We have walked by this place so many times and looked in the window....we finally decided to try it on a recommendation from this lovely young couple we stood in line with at the Basilicata.
It was cozy, old school and good!

Surprise! We each ordered a veg platter!
This was a perfect combo, and really good.

We ordered an arugula salad to go with our main dishes...

The tagliatelle with pesto was great.
They added a nice touch, tiny cubes of potato, which is very Ligurian.

Johnny really enjoyed his eggplant parmesan. 
It was very good.

We don't often do dessert, but we shared some biscotti with Vin Santo
It was a treat!

I'm writing this on the morning we leave Venice. 
Last night we ate at our local favorite, and it never disappoints.

We actually ate here several nights ago. We met friends who were staying nearby, and basically had the same dinner with them as we did last night...

Johnny behind the camera...
Me digging the vibe!

We really don't want to leave, but a good meal
helps with the pain...

This spot has THE BEST vegetarian platter. We each order one, with a side of soft polenta. It's a perfect meal for us and every bite is awesome.
It changes seasonally, but always has a good combination of bites.

On this night, stuffed tomatoes, roasted winter squash, grilled veggies, lentils...

They even have a couple of brussels sprouts on the plate.

Yeah, that empty bowl was full of creamy polenta.
We will be back.

We walked back to our apartment satiated, but sad to be leaving our beloved Venice.

It helps to know we will always be back, walking these lovely lanes, seeing art and eating well.

We feel nothing but grateful.

Thank you, Venice...

Good Night, Venice....

Basilica di San Marco...Finally

We have literally lost count of how many times we've visited Venice over the last 20+ years, and I hate admit that we've never been inside the gorgeous Basilica in St. Mark Square.

It's always so crowded, with lines going on forever to enter. 

We happened to get out early a couple of mornings ago, with no intention of going, but when we walked through the square, it was almost empty. There were a handful of people in line at 8:30, so we hemmed and hawed as we sort of got in line.

There was a delightful couple there, and we got to chatting....next thing we knew, we were officially standing in line behind them.

I am soooo glad we met them. We probably would have decided not to go in without their encouragement.

So. I took more photos than I can believe. This first one is just a random photo I got from online, but the rest are from our visit inside.

Enjoy!

Stock photo of the exterior...
It was hard to get a good shot, as they are doing work all around.

Morning light.

As we entered, we were just gobsmacked. What were we waiting for?!? 

THIS!!!

Mosaics all around, with stunning wooden sculpures.

The tiniest golden tiles make these magical.

This is actually carved marble.

 

The floors are amazing, as well....All marble.

Even Hawky was there!

We paid the extra 7 euro each to go upstairs. Totally worth it. The regular entrance fee is 3 euros at this time.

Upstairs, you can get really close to the mosaics.

I'm guessing these are 1/4" x 1/4" pieces.
Just incredible.

It was great seeing these up close...

More detail in the ceiling area.

There is a side room upstairs wit a collection of old tapestries and books....

Carved lion of Saint Marco.

It was exciting to see the 4 original horses. The ones outside are copies. These are the true horses, and they are inside to keep them safe from the elements.

To learn more about the horses, check it out here.

I loved the patina on these fine fellows.

Next, we went outside to see the "copied" horses, and also to get the best views ever...

One happy boy!

Me, too!
(jeez...do I look tired!)

The line below just getting started for the day.

It was a beautiful morning to be there.

We did it!!!

I've always loved this clocktower with it's blue 
color and golden stars.

Hehehehehe.
They are everywhere.

The marble all around is incredible.

The inside view from the upper floor is worth the 7 euros.

A few more mosaics to enjoy, then back down the stairs to say goodbye.

It's tight! And steep!

It was a treat to see a hawk hanging around the Campanile!
Look very close...it's waiting for a pigeon, I bet.

It was a great morning, and we can now check it off the ever growing list of things we want to do someday!