Lunch At Osteria Del Teatro, Cortona

  When we are staying in Umbria, we always need to take the short drive to Cortona, in nearby Tuscany. There is a wonderful book/art supply store where Johnny enjoys buying some of the art supplies needed for each visit.

 For me the visit to Cortona means lunch somewhere, usually Dardano, which I've blogged about before. It's our 'go to' place in Cortona, and we do love it (can you say flash fried porcini?). We get into a routine pretty quick, I guess, and we wanted to try someplace different.

  We had been talking to local Panicale restauranteurs, Simone and Lorena (Il Gallo Nel Pozzo), and they said they had enjoyed lunch at Osteria del Teatro, below.

  We have strolled pass this place many times, but have never stopped. It's hard to miss, with the sweet terrace outside, and all the plants, etc. It's always packed, too, so I made a reservation to make certain we could eat outside. It was a very warm September afternoon and there was a nice breeze.   Perfection.

  We were brought menus, ordered water and settled down to decide. I spied a couple of interesting starters, and after making certain they were vegetarian, we ordered. 

  The waiter was a trip...old school with white gloves. It sort of put me off at first, but he was a true professional, taking his job seriously, while still being fun to work with. 

  After ordering our starters and main dishes, we found a nice wine to try.

  Now it was time to sit back and indulge.

  

A beautiful way to start our meal...

Eggplant 'tortino'' with burrata cream and tomato with red pepper puree.
Packed with flavor and texture. I didn't want to share, but I did...

Johnny chose ricotta stuffed zucchini flowers, baked
then served with a fresh pea and basil purée. So glad Johnny wanted to share!

We slowly enjoyed sipping whilst eating, of course.
I almost forgot to take a photo of this wine.
We love a good Ribolla Gialla, and this was perfect, chilled, on a warm day.

  As we enjoyed the great people watching, the kitchen was busy working on our pasta course...

Johnny picked buratta stuffed pasta with parmesan cream and truffles.
These are called cappellacci, 'little hats'. Very good, and the pasta was perfectly cooked.

I couldn't resist the ravioli stuffed with pecorino and pear.
Again, so glad we are good about sharing!
These two really complimented each other, as well.

Mmmmmmmmmmm-y.

  As vegetarians, we sometimes order 'contorni' (vegetable side dishes) as our next course. Most often, we just get pasta and share a veg...on this day, we splurged and ordered lots.

  It all sounded so good!

Onions roasted slowly in their own juices.
Ummm...YES.

The grilled vegetables were quite good, and included leeks and radicchio.

  To end this most delicious meal, we shared a tiramisu. I loved this updated version!

Good flavors of espresso, mascarpone and chocolate.
It all came through.

We were in dire need of a long walk...better yet, a long nap...
The walk won out, but the nap was soon to follow!

Try Osteria del Teatro next time you want to splurge a bit in Cortona!

Siamo Nello Specchio!

  Ah, yes...We Are In The Mirror.....

  If this was an old episode of 'The Outer Limits', or 'The Twilight Zone', we would be stuck in the mirrors...forever. Sigh. Not a bad end, actually...

MIRROR SHOTS 2016

  As we wander through various towns and cities during our annual jaunt to Italy, I keep my eyes peeled for mirrors. It's a great way to get fun pictures of Johnny and I together, sometimes just me, and it has now become quite a fun diversion.

  I try to find new locations, but always end up with some mirrors that we stand in front of every year. Why not? Some times things in life become classic. A few special 'traffic' mirrors we love have become classics...to us, anyway.

  

I just love these muted tones...

A classic. Morning walk, Paciano.

  Mostly, I try to get Johnny to join in the fun, and most of the time he's up for it....

Absolutely have no idea where this was.
It was in Italy, this I do know.

Up against the wall, Dude!
Mr. J does love the shady side of the street.

In the hills above Cortona.

  

Sometimes I'll be all by my lonesome self, just taking a walk and playing with my camera....

Out in the countryside, somewhere...

This was way out in the middle of nowhere...
Johnny was down the way painting...
It was a fun day of adventure.

The signs are there, I just can't read them.
Johnny waits, always patiently.

Again, Paciano.
Watching wisteria come into full bloom.

Same spot as above, but opposite direction....
Johnny wants that building in the background for his studio.

Outside of Panicale, another classic mirror shot.
Johnny paints in the background.

  Boy, the one thing I do notice here is that I wear the same outfit everyday, for the most part. I am getting good at packing light, I guess!

Ahhh...Back together again, just the way I like it.
Baby, don't leave me alone.

  I especially like finding mirror shots in unexpected places.

Used furniture stores are always good for a mirror or two...

...thrift stores are great, too...

...and you can't go wrong at a favorite watering hole.
In Florence.

  We go on day trips all over the joint, so there are lots of mirrors to take advantage of. Mostly they are traffic mirrors, since there are blind driveways and sharp turns everywhere. Good for me!

Getting a little fuzzy.
Maybe one too many glasses of vino?
Never!

  As I look at these now, I realize that I have no idea what so ever where many of these Mirror Shots were taken. All I can say is this...I really don't mind.

What's not to love?

Down yet another 'white road'....
Just where we like to be at sunset.

Somewhere on a hill....

In an Umbrian Borgo...
.....that looks really familiar.

Ok, I couldn't resist taking a shot from the car.
That's us, in the silver Lancia.
No idea where we are here.

  Ok, I do believe I know where the rest of these were taken. Maybe.

Morning walk, again, in Paciano.
Village of many Mirror Shots.

Ahhh..Pienza.
Typically Tuscan!

Ummm...ok.
I don't know where, but maybe the morning walk to Missiano?

Bella Roma, in the rain.
Sigh. Two very happy, albeit wet, campers.

  Of course, the most classic, of all the classic Mirror Shots, is the mirror we see everyday, over and over and over again...
  The mirror we pass under on our morning walks to Paciano...
  The mirror across from the apartment where the nonna watches from her window, every day...
  The mirror that holds the view of Lago Trasimeno....
  The mirror that also holds the view of the benches and the  red chair, where the nonni sit and spend their sunny afternoons watching and talking...
  The mirror just outside the walls of Panicale.

A Visit To Le Celle

  During our visits to Umbria, we make a bunch of day trips.  It's such a perfect area to start from, and there are so many wonderful places to check out within an hour or two driving.

  We had heard about "Le Celle" from Aldo (of Bar Gallo fame) during our first visit to Panicale, but hadn't gotten around to going until last year, 2014. I can't believe we waited so long. It's a lovely spot, especially off season, which is when we normally travel.

  "Le Celle" translates to The Cells…and the full name of this place is actually "Santuario Le Celle".

  From what I've read, it dates from around 1200, and was a spiritual stop for Saint Francis of Assisi. Over several years and visits, it became a monastery which housed a small community of Franciscan monks. The Cells refer to the small rooms which were used for living quarters, as well as prayer.

  It is located in a wooded area just a few kilometers from Cortona. The drive is easy, but it is a small and narrow road. Once there, you can park and stroll around the both the gardens and the monastery. You must stay quiet, but the energy here makes this task very easy.

The signpost at the entrance of Le Celle

  Supposedly, St. Francis helped build the cells, along with a follower, Brother Elia. St. Francis also dictated his Will here, four years before his death. So is written…

  All I can say for certain is that it is beautiful, peaceful, and well worth a visit.

It was a perfect day for this.

  As you can see from these photos, the monastery is built into the side of a canyon…kind of hidden away until you are right there. I was amazed…How did they do this?

  As we approached the entrance, all we could hear were birds, the gentle sound of the breeze, and the soft murmur of water winding down the canyon… I understand completely why St. Francis chose this place to spend some serious prayer time.

The color of the stone facade with the blue sky just
makes me melt...

  We were there in late March, and though the day was a sunny one, it was not yet full blown spring. I would love to go back just to see this garden, below, in it's glory.

You pass above the garden as you approach the entrance
to the main buildings.

  We could hear the sound of water well before we saw where it was coming from. What a great surprise! I couldn't help but imagine naked Franciscan monks sliding down this algae covered rock/water slide on a warm summer evening! I could just hear the laughter echoing off the canyon walls.

  At least that's how I would love to imagine their life…lots of prayer and then some fun, you know?

Wheeeeeee!

  Once inside the actual chapel, we found the cell of St. Francis.

The sweet little chapel, with the cell of St. Francis to the right…
This is the "old", original chapel.

These peonies blew my mind, by the way.
Yes, real.

A place to pray and sleep...

  I think Johnny really enjoyed being in here. Seeing the stone cell and imagining St. Francis here. He has a very soft spot for old 'Frank'..and we have several versions of the famous animal & bird loving Saint in our garden at home.
  I enjoyed it, too. I loved the total quietness of the surroundings. All we could hear were sounds of nature.
  As it should be...

A contemplative Mr. J

A stone bridge leads to the veg garden.

We walked down the canyon a ways, and back up to see this view..
The new spring growth on the willow trees is so pretty.

  We spent time in various areas, but never saw another person. Even in the tiny gift shop. There was an 'honor system' box to put euros in, if you wanted something. Johnny picked out a few little things to bring home. 

  We could hear soft voices in the distance, but didn't see anyone. Maybe it was prayer time for the residents? There are a few still here. It was cool. We just wandered around, enjoying the ambiance and taking pictures...

A rather modern take on St. Francis.
I like the birdies...

Just one more thing I want for my garden.

The 'new' chapel, constructed by Capucin monks around 1630.
New…hehehehe.

  A morning very well spent, I must say. I would return, but later in the season. I'd like to see the gardens when they are really happening. 

  

Time to say arrivederci, for now….
But we'll be back.

  As we drove back along the canyon, I had Johnny pull over to take a photo (below) from across the way. You can just see Le Celle there, in the middle. It's tucked in below the large stand of trees. 

  Like I said…you hardly know it's there, if you don't know where to look.

  I bet that's just how they wanted it.

Le Celle…It's almost not even there….

Here's more information about this very special place:

Le Celle