Saturday, August 11, 2012

The Old Cemetery On The Hill


  While staying in Panicale, we love our walks out into the surrounding countryside. It's a great way to connect with the land, the views, and each other. If the weather looks promising, we'll plan an afternoon or early evening walk into the hills nearby.
  There are marked trails all around, as many visitors come for the hiking. We often see groups coming down a trail, small backpacks and snazzy walking sticks that look like ski poles to me. I love the trail markers, usually a small wooden sign painted with a red and white stripe, or just a rock marked with red and white stripes. Most of the time we don't run into anyone, as we are always there off season.
  A favorite walk for us is up the Strada Capuccini, just outside the walls of Panicale. It's a hike that takes you way up, and divides-one way takes you to a wonderful look out over the valley and Lago Trasimeno, but this time we head towards the old church and cemetery on the hill between Panicale and Missiano.
  This isn't a hard walk, though it is up,up,up for a little while before leveling off. I like the shadowy feel under the canopy created by the trees along each side of the dirt path. There are nice crunchy leaves on the ground, and always lots of beautiful wildflowers.



Just off the main road around the walls of Panicale, this
is where the hike starts and goes up,up,up.


  We like to look for walking sticks at the very beginning of our stay, and keep them by the front door for the duration of the trip. It's always a little sad leaving them behind after that last hike out... just when your hand starts to feel super natural grabbing it, like it's been custom made for you.
  I always bring a bag with water, a bite to eat and whatever I'm reading, knowing Johnny will most likely set up and paint. What a sweet way to spend an hour or two.



All ready to hike and paint, he's one happy guy.



This year I had a really great walking stick, and we both loved taking ours out and about.




  This hike takes us way up, levels off and then goes into the canopy for some time, before coming out on top of the hill. At the top we find ourselves in the open space of the old church and cemetery, now a parking area for those who choose to go up the "easy way".
  The views up here are outstanding, as they encompass a wide area to look out on. On a clear spring day, we could see for Umbrian kilometers!





A nice spot to sit, an even better one faces the view...


  The old church is now de-sanctified. We were told that in the summer and fall there are concerts here. Jazz and small classical groups, mostly. I can totally imagine, because the acoustics are beyond reality. We've been up there several times, and I always have to sing a little tune into the outside covered area, just to hear it ring around.





I like to sing here. I hope the families buried in this mausoleum area don't mind.



  Just around the side of the church you find the cemetery, which is somewhat run down. I love the way it looks, though, and find it so fascinating. When my language skills are better, I really want to find out more about this place. 
  We talked to a local young woman who said her father is doing a computer image thingy of what the whole site looked like originally. It will have all the architectural details and such. I look forward to learning more next spring.





The entry to the cemetery, with the prerequisite Italian Cypress trees



  These days, the gate is locked, and you are not allowed to enter the cemetery without permission. The gate is easy to look through, though. It kind of amazes me that anyone can just go and see this, being that it is rundown, sort of falling apart. It seems too personal. And yet, here I am sharing it with the world... It's just beautiful to me.
  What can I say...I was one of those kids that had a love of cemeteries, and I suppose I still do.
  




The view through the old gate.



Lovely headstones and grave markers from centuries past.







  Now there is a new cemetery and mausoleum outside of Panicale, which we have visited, also. It is lovely, with lots flowers everywhere. It's nice.


  After sitting for a bit, either munching on something, painting, reading, or just resting...we take in the outstanding views and head back down the hill. We hope to see a snake, or a few lizards...maybe even the elusive Olive Tree Cat. Mostly we're happy to just be taking a stroll.
  The walk takes us through olive groves, fields, and even past some hard-to-get-to small villas. We never see anyone living in them, and assume they are summer homes, being so remote. Of course, I always want to poke around, but don't. Johnny doesn't approve, and that's a good thing. That boy really keeps me in line.





View of Panicale, with Lago Trasimeno in the far distance.




Looking towards Perugia and Assisi from the old cemetery.

   On the way down the hill, closer to town, there are the best views of Panicale ever. These are the postcard and calendar shots. On this day, with the clouds just so, and the sky so blue...magic.




So clear, you can see buildings across the lake.


Panicale, we love and miss you!


  As we wait to return to Panicale, we have so much to keep us busy and happy here at home. There is a small part of us always there, but as I mention over and over, here ain't bad, either. We'll see you again soon, Panicale!

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