More Tasty Memories

  It's no big secret, I love the food in Italy. Every time I get into a conversation about our trips, it's only a matter of moments before the inevitable "What about the food?" question comes up. Before weather, before lodging, before flights...it always comes down to the food experiences. 

  Hey, I get it. I'm pretty much all about the food. Thank god I have a good walking regime while there....if not, I would be rolling myself back home, no doubt about it. Hmmm...not a bad idea, since I do hate flying...? Think on it, Janelle.....

  Anyway-

  I enjoy cooking wherever we are stay, for sure, but I also love going on our little day trips, eye always out for some little spot to stop for lunch. Umbria is full of little towns, which always have one or more cafe, osteria, trattoria or ristorante. The bigger cities have lots of options. We never strike out, it seems.

  Just down the road in Paciano, we had our second lunch at La Loggetta, an osteria we tried on our last trip in 2011, which I wrote about here. We knew there was a festa going on, so we walked over with the plan of another nice meal. We found out that La Loggetta has changed hands a few times in the last several years, and has mixed reviews from the locals, but we enjoyed both of our visits. We were thrilled to see they had a special of artichokes served five ways. We were in!

  We started with a nice cheese platter, including some decadent fried cheeses..really, who could resist? Don't answer that.

Cheeses to have with a nice crisp Umbrian white wine, and crunchy bread...

  So after luscious bites and sips, we moved onto the artichokes...

From the left, creamy artichoke soup, artichoke stuffed with cheese & breadcrumbs, artichoke braised and served
with balsamic reduction, artichoke frittata, and  crunchy fried artichokes....

  We shared these two starters, so of course we needed a little pasta for energy to walk home. We both had the house special that day, house made umbricelli with rape, sort of like broccoli rabe, a nice bitter green sautéed with lemon and lots of garlic. A generous sprinkle of pecorino, and done.

Sitting on the terrace, so fine!

  I have also written about my love of the Tavola Calda, a sort of buffet style place to have lunch, or take away, only so much better. And inexpensive, which is always a plus. This year we had our eyes peeled for any sign of these, wanting to try some place new. We did, and also we went back to the places we tried last year. I would love to open a place like this somewhere close to home. Walking distance would be sweet.

  The place below is just outside of Tavernelle, down the hill from Panicale. This is the sign you are looking for, my friends. Don't be put off if it looks like a bar, or cafeteria, just give it a go, and head on in. Most likely you will be the only non-local there, as these places are usually filled with workers of all types on lunch break.

Nothing too fancy,  but full of good, home cooked yumminess.

  We can always count on good vegetarian options, and usually quite a few of them. The veg dishes are considered sides to the main event, which is a pasta or meat dish. But we'll just ask for a plate of "verdure miste", mixed vegetables, and see what we get. Or, there will be certain casserole type dishes we can point to and ask if they are vegetarian. It's a great way to push through the language "comfort zone", and try to use new vocabulary.

  

A typical mix of warm veggies..served with a basket of bread on the side.

  We decided to try the rice and zucchini dish they had here, too. Not risotto, but really good. We shared the veggies, and each had a little of the rice. It was warm and just rich enough. Love the glistening olive oil.....

We love that these are the "fast food" lunch stops of the town. 

Grilled and marinated veggies along with a stuffed tomato. Another day, another lunch.

This place had a super nice mix of casserole dishes, and we tried several of them. This was in Arezzo.

A favorite place in Tavernelle, Il Capriccio, that we have been to several times...we like the young man behind the counter, Lorenzo. This was a first stop this year!

At Il Capriccio, we also tried this baked pasta with baby artichokes.

The place below, which I am afraid I do not know the name of, was tucked down a side street in Citta di Castello. It was a nice day, and we were able to sit outside.
   It seemed very popular, and had a lot of office type workers in for lunch. I am always astounded at the big plates of pasta, followed by a meat course that the locals put away during lunch. I would want nothing but a nice long nap afterwards. I suppose that is exactly the purpose of the quick shot of espresso at the end....

A fabulous find in Citta di Castello. A place known for it's massive steaks, we had a wonderful veg meal here.

At "Faliero", now a favorite stop for us near the lake. Always too much food! We share, at least....
The "sandwich" is Johnny's idea of heaven.."Torta al Testo" is a traditional Umbrian dish.

  This year we made it to Pellicano. We had driven by this spot between Panicale and Castiglione del Lago many, many times, but never tried it. Our friend, Katia had told us it was good. Now that we know, we'll be regulars, too!
  It is a wacky scene, long communal tables everywhere, really great and helpful wait staff, and fantastic pizzas at great prices. The pastas look good, too, but we come for the pizza. This place rocks, literally, after the dinner crowd moves along. There is the pizzeria/birreria that seats more people than you can count, and then there is the bar upstairs. We hear Mario Batali has been known to party all hours here, but it could be a rumor...Live music until 3am.
  We go for the pizza. Thin, toasted crusts with every type of topping you can imagine. I love the simplicity of the onion and sage, but would be happy to have an arugula, potato and asiago right now, please. The weather on our 3rd and final visit this year was warm, and there were tons of people inside, as well as outside. Families, groups of young people, and couples like us, all crowded together and enjoying every moment.
  We love it. We have promised ourselves that it will be a first stop next time! And no fooling around, I am going at least once a week. It is that good, and that affordable. I can't wait. Plus, it's just so fun to "people watch" into the wee hours.
  Pellicano, I love thee.

MUST. HAVE. MORE.

  So, knowing it's only a matter of a few months, we are once again watching our calories and exercising regularly, preparing for the inevitable chowdown to come. Is that so wrong?