Side Trip: Bologna

  This is year four for us here, in Umbria, staying extended lengths of time. 

  Every year we try to do an overnight side trip somewhere not too far, but far enough. 

  Every year Bologna is on the list. 

  Why Bologna? Well, firstly, it is the home town of Italian Artist Superstar, Giorgio Morandi. He is best known for his simply gorgeous still life paintings in muted tones. 

  We are both big fans, but Johnny was especially excited to have the opportunity to see the house and studio of Morandi. An important pilgrimage, to be sure.

  Me? Well, as much as I wanted to see these fantastic works of art, I also was more than aware of Bologna's claim as a major Italian food city. Land of fresh pasta! What's not to love? 

  We finally went for it, a week or so ago…I booked a room, we checked the train schedule, and high-tailed it north. It rained most of the 2-3 hour train ride, which was fine. Gave us both time to read/nap. We arrived later in the day, checked in, and went out in the rain to check the city out.

  I loved walking through town, snapping shots of amazing displays of goodness….

The fresh tortellini are famous here.

  I was tempted by each and every window….but I must say, as much as I love a good, aged cheese….this one just didn't do it for me.  I'm absolutely certain this cheese is a "foodie" wet dream, but come. Too much of a good thing, perhaps?

There she sits, third shelf down…..in the middle.
Expensive and rare, from what the sign indicates.

Ummm……I don't think so. Not for me, anyhow.

  Stinky cheese aside, we ventured along to see more sights in the evening light, and find a place for dinner. 

  

"Due Torre", the famous two towers of Bologna...

  Our friends, Roy & Diana had been to Bologna recently, and Roy told us about a little restaurant that was just the right place for us. 

  Small, friendly, and a little away from the fray, Incrocio Montegrappa is a local favorite, it seems. As we were somewhat early, we were able to enjoy everyone coming in, watching them greeted with hugs and kisses, lots of laughter and good vibes all around. It quickly filled up.

  I also noted a few tables of single men or women, dining solo, and just relaxing and enjoying. I love to see this in any restaurant…solo diners getting all the best service from the very attentive waiter.

  The main waiter was magical…able to give the best service to each and every person in the place, playing host as well. When it began to get real busy, he did have a couple of helpers.

  He also helped us in choosing dishes that could easily be made vegetarian, though there were some nice choices either way.

  We started with two salads...

Pear and pecorino.

Raw artichoke and parmesan…a favorite of mine.

  There were some tough choices for the pasta course, our main course….I was quite intrigued by the pasta made with Spanish paprika in the dough. It was served in a suase that had cherry tomatoes and fava beans. I asked them to hold the speck, a cured meat. Still great without the speck. Spicy and sweet, and nutty, too.

  Johnny had a super simple, but very rich tagliatelle, served in a creamy, buttery saffron sauce, with shards of aged parmesan….

  

  Both the pasta dishes were so different from what we've had in Umbria…naturally. Bologna is in Emilia-Romagna, an entirely different region of Italy. So close, but so far when it comes to cuisine! Each region has it's own special dishes, and theirs are THE BEST. Always. 

  I admire this hold on tradition.

  Oh, at the end of our meal, we were presented with an open bottle of chestnut cream liquor, and two tiny glasses…also, a small plate of crispy, buttery cookies…..

  Heaven!

  Home to bed, and up early to see the current exhibition in town of Vermeer's "Girl With The Pearl Earring", as well as many other classic paintings by Vermeer, Rembrandt, and others. Glad we did this early, as we beat the crowds that showed just as we were leaving.

No photos allowed inside, so…..

  Then on to Mambo, the local museum that now houses the Morandi collection. The original location was damaged in the recent earthquake, so it is here for now. A fantastic retrospective show…including old photos, works he did as child, and all the best of his landscapes and still life paintings. 

  There was also a companion show by contemporary Art Star, and Turner Prize recipient, Rachel Whiteread. She sites Morandi as one of her biggest influences, and I can see why…the simple forms, subtle colors and vision of the works are very simpatico…... to me, anyway.

  The connection became even more obvious when we later visited Morandi's studio.

  Again, no photos allowed in these museums, but you can do your own sleuthing to see the like-mindedness of these artists.

Ok, I did sneak a shot of Johnny sketching Morandi's personal objects, in the
media/lecture room at Casa Morandi.

  We walked around Bologna for the rest of the day, stopping here and there to sketch, soak in the now sunny day, and have a sip of wine.

Beautiful porticoes that Bologna is famous for..

Street scene.

Cool old sign for a book/paper/card shop.

The colors knocked me out...

Near the university….

Peeking through the gate of a local villa…..

 Getting a bit hungry, we stumbled on a vegetarian friendly place I had read about online…

 Clorofilla. No website, but good reviews. 

Those of you who understand, will get it. We were so happy to see tofu, tempeh AND seitan on the menu! Wow!

  We had to have a meal here, certo!!

I had the seitan "steak", with fresh raw veg on the side.
Just having something different in texture and flavor profile! YUM!

Johnny had the special "light" plate..
Farro salad, chunks of tempeh in a curry sauce, and veggies.
Also great.

  We were very satisfied on all levels, having finally made it to Bologna. I loved the food, Johnny was righteously inspired by the art, and it was even a fun train ride. 

  Will we return? Who knows? For now, we are just happy to have finally made it to this important Italian city.

Satisfied.

And happy.