Wister-landia!

  

  Over the years, in lots of gardens including my own, I've attempted growing a wisteria vine to make the jaw drop, to stop traffic, to write home about, to...well, you get what I mean. Never succeeded.  There was a beauty in Hope's garden...and a pretty good one in the Johnson's garden. But they were already great before I started working in those gardens.

  I'm a failure at growing wisteria. I'll admit it.

  That being said, I do love them. I love the color, texture, fragrance of bloom. Wisteria is a spectacular plant when it is happy and healthy.

  I have found that all wisteria growing in the immediate area around Lago Trasimeno are the happiest of all. It's Wisterlandia, for sure. The perfect combo of sun and rain, I guess. That, and a little TLC goes a long way.

  Panicale has some lovely vines along the walls, but all around the area, in every little town, I found amazing wisteria vines doing their thing. Since we drive all around the area, over and over, looking for painting views, it gives me a chance to scope out the vines. I watch them change from the dead look of Winter to the abundant color of Spring. 

  I did a recent post, Before And After, that shows several scenes that I shot in early March, followed by the same scenes in late April.

  It's magic, I'm telling you.

A shot from a recent post, showing a wisteria vine in it's Winter phase.
Not a whole lot going on.

  The photo above is just showing what I look for early on our trips...wisteria vines waiting to fluff out. I'll keep my eye on all the various vines around Panicale, and the whole area. We make mental notes to go back later on, just to watch them pop.

  Like mirrors, gnomes, vintage Cinque centos and tavola caldas....I get obsessive about finding them. I'll tell you what...they are way easier to spot in mid April than early March. 

  Just look for the purple haze.

On the shores of Lago di Montepulciano, in Binami, a very small fishing village.

Same vine as above, I just loved this angle.

On the road to Tavernalle, just below Panicale.
I like the color combo. Especially the wall.

A massive old vine in the center of Tavernalle.
Look how it wraps around the building.

In Castiglione della Valle.
Like a movie set.

  When the wisteria vines are at their peak, I swear...the fragrance is all around. On a warm day, it's the first thing you notice. The sweet smell of all the wisteria vines going off. Most vines are huge, and pruned so nicely. The blooms are immense, and there are plenty of them. So. 

  It smells very nice, indeed.

I wasn't sure if this old vine was a little wild, or not.
The garden seemed non existent, but the wisteria seemed pruned...
Either way, it was a real stunner.

  The next few shots are of vines that have gotten a little out of control. What is that purple blooming tree? Oh, it's not a tree at all......

Near Mugnano, this vine has climbed into an equally lovely
Cercis, or Redbud tree. Nice.

Wisteria Gone Wild!
In San Feliciano.

Another victim of another wisteria vine.
Bad vine. Bad, bad vine. But so pretty.

  Most of these examples are are vines that we would drive by two or three times a week. I just didn't notice what they were until they began budding up. Then it was a race against the clock....would we leave before the big bloom? Would we miss the show?

  Answer...No! 

  And because the weather was cool and mild, the blooms lasted and lasted...most were still going when we did finally leave. 

  Last year it was really hot very early. All the vines came on fast, and lasted about three minutes. They were hit hard by the early heat. 

  This was a perfect wisteria year.

Another amazing vine we drove by numerous times before knowing it was even there.
The first time we saw it in bloom, I made Johnny turn around and go back.
I had to get up close to this one!

Under the same vine. It was a warm day. The fragrance was almost overwhelming.
It just made the driveway a little more special.

  Panicale has her fair share of gorgeous wisteria vines, thanks to some gardeners with vision. One side of the outside walls are almost completely filled with wisteria. When folks park their cars, they are greeted with the sweetness of the blooms and the beauty of the colors...It's a nice way to say "Hi, Panicale" when we arrive home after being out all day.

The pretty vine that lives in Stew's garden. In full bloom like this, you can see it from outside the walls.

I watched anxiously as these little buds started popping out,
softening the tops of the walls of Panicale.

So perfectly in their place.
I call it "site appropriate".

One of the few white wisteria we see, this is in a magical garden of friends.

Draping themselves over the top of Panicale's outside walls, these
vines add a softness that is so unexpected.

Still more in Panicale.

Another view of the white vine, with it's purple companion.
I have taken photos of this view more times than I can count...

  This year our apartment looked over the little public park, as well as the now closed Hotel/Restaurant Boldrino. I had never seen this huge vine bloom before, and was ready to give it up for this year, too. But just in the last week, week and a half, it all came on. I would gaze down from our windows waiting, waiting...

This used to cover the outdoor seating area of the restaurant. Now it's very overgrown,
but still breathtaking, especially with the yellow Banksia rose going off at the same time.

The same vine from the street. The four windows next to the tower
were our apartment windows. Two upper floors.

Another shot from the street. Sigh. I hope someone re-opens this old beauty.

Nice red and purple shot. We loved our little car.

Enough wisteria yet? I told you, it's Wisterlandia, man.

My dream house. Just saying, Universe......

A shot of Stew's vine from below. I can still smell the sweetness of walking around
Panicale those last couple of weeks.

Massive old vine in the park outside of Paciano. This one I watched like a hawk.
It did not disappoint.

Same vine as above, from the front. In the summer months to come,
 they sell organic veggies here, under the vine.

  I never tire of these special vines, and I hope I didn't burn you out with so many photos. It's just that I find every one of them so beautiful. I honestly couldn't choose which not to include.
  Funny thing is, next year...I'll take all the same photos again. It's hard to resist. I'll keep them to myself, though.
  Now I'm off to enjoy my garden. It's an absolutely perfect late afternoon....see ya.
 

Help In The Garden

  What do I miss most when we are away for weeks and weeks? 

  My Family.

  My Garden. 

  Cheese Enchiladas.

  

  Upon arriving home after eight weeks away last year, the garden had exploded with weeds, bugs and general unruliness. My dearest pal Tasha was a trooper. She came by often to check on things and throw a little water around. My dearest neighbor, Loreen, came over (unbeknownst to me) several times to try and keep some semblance of order. I appreciated this beyond the beyond...really. They are the best garden pals ever. I love them.  

  But.... I just can't expect anyone, no matter how grand a friend, to really "garden" my garden while I'm gone. Way too much to ask. This year I decided to hire a pro.

  Hence the phone call to Pedro, a wonderful gardener and all around cool fellow that works in several gardens I know well. I know his work is fantastic, and I knew it was time for me to finally bite the bullet and cry "Uncle". 

  Thank you, Pedro. You are my new BFF. Seriously.

  We got in from the airport late at night, but first thing the next morning, I was up and out to connect with my garden....

  

I knew all was good just looking out the kitchen window......

  The front area looks spectacular...roses all around the arbors and front door....what a treat to come home to. Last year the roses were already spent, and full of all things icky for roses. I'm so happy to see everything looking so fine.

  

Front entry way is just coming into bloom.

I love this rose, "Polka".
 That's "Flower Girl", trained as a standard, in the foreground.

  It's been hard for me to hand over my garden to someone else. I am a control freak, I'll admit it. I hardly let Johnny do anything in the garden. But....I can't do it anymore. At least not everything, and not the way I used to. 

 I'll say it right here. Right now.

 I am no longer Gardening Super-Woman. Whew. There. I feel so free.

  Now....if I can only make sure dear Pedro will be able to keep helping. He's a busy dude.

Just shaping those two large shrubs would kill me these days.

  The back yard, not so big, but just so full, is a huge chore. What a treat to come home with all the paths raked, and everything nicely groomed...no weeds, plants fed and very healthy. It made me very happy.

A shady bed outside of the Dining Pavillion/Library.
Looking mighty Holy, I must say. Hear the angels singing.....

Opposite side of the Pavillion...I'm in love with the Japanese maple here.
It's new.

This combo is working for me, though I wasn't certain
about the salmon pink here. I like it with the Euphorbia.

My succulents just keep getting more wonderful.
I'm spreading them all around, for sure.

  Here's the thing. I have not been able to enjoy my garden for years. It's beautiful, as long as I work like crazy to keep it just so. I'm getting hurt doing this. I just can't do it anymore. 

  So.

  Now, with Pedro's fine work(you will have time for me, right?), I can do the little piddly stuff that I enjoy, and maybe be able to really fall in love with my garden again. Instead of looking at my garden as some huge weekly chore I must attend to. Sigh.

  Am I really ready for this?

  Why, yes...yes I am.

  Maybe, just maybe....I might actually be comfortable sitting in the lovely area below, without jumping up every five minutes because I see something that needs to be done. Poor Johnny....he'd love to have me relax in the garden some day.

  I say...That Day Has Come.

  Well, I hope so, anyway.....

Sitting spot to enjoy, with my name on it.
 Oh, that big red pot is for our little fishies. So the critters can't get to them.

Now I'll have time and maybe even energy to clean out my potting shed, in the corner.
It's a hot mess in there.

  Before leaving, back in late February, I planted some seeds, just for fun. It was a true joy to have a small harvest to come home to. Chard, carrots, scallions, a couple of beets...and a lot of potatoes. 

  One of the first things I've done now that we're home, is plant a bunch of tomatoes. I missed having home growns last year, but this year I didn't hesitate. Can't wait for those!

  The arbor leading to the veg garden is full of the rose "Buff Beauty", a real favorite of mine. I hate to cut them, but I love the bouquets in the house and gallery. Damn. 

Looking into the veg garden. The light on the arbor is from a great salvage place
we discovered last year in Italy. We found one for the entry this year.
Johnny just needs to rewire it.

Pedro even raked the veg garden, which was very nice, indeed.
Lettuce seed just planted in wired bed on the right.

    

It's what's for dinner.

"Constance Spry" and "The Alchemist". A match made in heaven.
Especially together on my fence. 

  As I have mentioned many times before. Or maybe only once before.....

  I love having the garden to ground me when arriving back home after being away for so long. Even with all the work to do, or not, it just helps me "center" myself. The sound of the fountains, the colors and textures. The light changing and shining through the canopy. It's really kind of magical, and I do  occasionally pat myself on the back for a job well done. 

  All the years of planning, planting, making big mistakes, trying again, changing, changing, changing things....all the work that has gone down over the past seventeen years, all that. 

  It's beautiful. I really do love it. I don't want to think of my lovely garden as a chore. I'm ready to hand over the reins, friends. 

  I'm finally ready to sit, relax and enjoy my fantastic creation. 

  Thanks, Pedro. You have shown me the light.

  

Lunch At Il Casale

  Having arrived back home a few days ago, we are still dreaming in Umbria...and our dreams (mine, anyway....) feature delightful Umbrian dishes. 

  Though I must say, I am craving a good cheese enchilada like you can't believe. Guacamole, too. I see lunch at a local taqueria in my very near future.

  The thing about eating in Umbria, or any region of Italy, I suppose, is that the menus in almost every restaurant are the same. There may be some slight deviation, but it's always whatever is in season, and whatever the local specialties are. Each place will have it's own "spin" on a regional dish, of course. Family recipes and all that. My mom's meatloaf wouldn't be like our neighbors...that sort of difference.

  It's funny. Here we have so many cuisines, from all around the world. Near my folks house close to Sonoma, there is a place that features Himalayan sherpa cuisine. Not going to find that in Umbria, no way.

  Setting that little tangent aside... Back to my dreams of Umbrian dishes.

  

  Very near Panicale, just outside of Paciano, is the wonderful Il Casale, "The Country House". Up a short stretch of white road, Il Casale has a few sweet rooms for rent, as well as a fine restaurant that is a favorite of locals and visitors. We know that Italians will drive from all over to enjoy Sunday lunch here. The views are spectacular, the food divine.

  We had tried to have Sunday lunch here last year, but struck out for lack of a reservation. This year we had better luck, and went on a Friday. We were the only diners that day, as it was March and very quiet. 

  Signora Giuseppina popped her head out the window, big smile on her face and invited us right in. She was in the kitchen prepping lunch for 70 Belgians the next day, and was more than happy to fix us a little something along the way...Oh, and she was all by herself. She took time to chat with us and made us feel right at home. No problemo. Vegetarians-there is plenty to choose from here. 

  After Giuseppina made some suggestions, we ordered and sat back to enjoy our surroundings.

One of two dining rooms. There is also an outside terrace with
beautiful views of the valley and Lago Trasimeno, which is open in warmer weather.

I knew we were in for something special as soon as this bread basket came out.
Baked in a wood fired oven.
Everything from bread to pasta is made in house.

  We ordered two appetizers, as well as a carafe of the "vino della case", house wine. In Italy, a house wine is most often very good, and a point of pride for the establishment. The wine we chose was no exception.

  I had to try the farro croquettes, a house specialty that was created by Giuseppina. Not sure exactly what is in them, but I did ask... parmesan, but no egg. Hmmm. 

  Must try to recreate at home.

Some Umbrian magic going on here.

Mr. Apodaca will never pass up an opportunity to savor polenta.
 Here, Giuseppina grills the polenta with olive oil and rosemary.

  We rarely order the same pasta dish, but we did on this occasion. Our hostess/chef  highly recommended this dish. 

  Pici pasta is a style of fresh pasta that is also called stringozzi in Umbria. I've made it at home a few times. Very easy. It's made from flour and water, and rolled between your palms like you're making clay worms, if you know what I mean. I like the semi tough texture of it. At Il Casale, the pasta is served with a walnut sauce, very traditional in Umbria. 

Nothing wrong with this picture.

Walnut-y goodness.

And one more shot to give you an idea of the walnut sauce.

  This was a big meal. We couldn't resist ordering more than usual, because there were just so many veggie options to try, like the farro croquettes and all.

  Giuseppina had told us that her daughter is vegetarian, so maybe that's an influence at Il Casale. Whatever the reason, we know we will be back next year..especially for the wood-fire roasted mushrooms......

Seriously good.
Slices of raw garlic were a perfect accent.

  The wood-fire oven gets a good work out here. We were informed that it gets cranked up at the crack of dawn, and the veggies are all roasted early in the day. We loved that there were several vegetable side dishes, or "contorni", prepared this way. Simple, simple, simple. A little olive oil, some herbs maybe, but mostly it's all about the fire.

  Onions, whole with skins still on, are roasted hard, drenched in very good olive oil, and remarkable. We do see these on other menus here. I order them whenever I see them....

Onions elevated to new heights of tastiness.

  And just because...we ordered the grilled eggplant. It was a veggie extravaganza, I'm telling you.

The best eggplant....EVER.

Now, doesn't this look good?

Only the toughest onion skins left on my plate. 

Job well done, kids.

  I know what you're saying...."Dessert? Really? After all that?" Yes. Dessert. Really. After all that. Come on....why stop now???

Me: Something chocolaty and warm with semi-freddo and cream.
What? Is that wrong?

Johnny: Something lemony and cold with an umbrella.
 Yes. An umbrella.
What? Is that wrong?

  After lingering over the last bits and bites and sips of goodness, we wandered back to the kitchen area...remember, it's only us and Giuseppini in the house, and she's such a sweetheart. Sadly, the photo I took of her in her kitchen came out very poorly. But there is a great shot of her on the website. 

Where all the magic happens.

  We finally said our arrivederci, hugs all around, promises to return. 

  And return we most certainly will, my friends. 

  Il Casale is definitely on our list of favorites now, too.

Il Casale, you are in my dreams.