This Evening In The Garden

  
  Well, we've been back home in California for two weeks now.
  Tough? Yes....but thankfully the garden has been my touchstone, as always.
 
  It's always hard to come back from two months in Umbria, and this year it's especially true. Now that we have our own place to return to, we just can't wait to go back, and kind of wonder why we can't just stay there.
  Upside, the gallery is doing great, we have already seen Mom & Dad, and gone to the San Fransisco Museum of Modern Art to see the amazing Matisse/Diebenkorn show.
  It's been a very busy two weeks, and we do love this side of our lives, too...of course.
 
  But...for me...it's the garden that has made all the difference in this transition.
  After the first real winter of rain in a decade, the garden is in her glory. I thank my garden guru, Pedro, as much as the rain. I can't imagine what a jungle it would be if not for him.
  His attention to detail is supreme, and the garden has never looked better.
  Pedro, dear friend, you ROCK.
 
  I have spent several hours over the last two weeks, between work and all, doing some puttering myself. Picking roses, cutting back this and that, planting tomatoes....just getting in there and getting dirt under my nails.
  It's everything to me.
  It's what I need to get connected here again.

  So, when we got home late from work at the gallery tonight, I walked out back and just breathed in the evening beauty... Thank you, dearest Garden...You may be small, but you are oh-so-mighty.


  I'll just let the pictures tell the story.
 

Visiting Isola Polvese

  Since our time here in Umbria is coming to an end(at least this visit), we are choosing some last things we want to do before we go.
  A couple of days ago, we woke to a banner day. Warm, clear and gorgeous. Seemed perfect for a hike around Isola Polvese, the largest of the three islands of Lago Trasimeno. We try to do this every year, so off we went to catch the boat from San Feliciano.

  You can catch different boats from different spots around the lake, each area serves different island destinations. For Isola Plovese, you need to go from San Feliciano, a charming village not far from us.
  We waited with four other people. Nice.

The island is in the background...a ten minute boat ride.

  We always enjoy a boat ride! And when the lake is like glass, even better.

  Johnny was happy he didn't need to bring a load of painting gear. He's done this many times here. This trip, work is over and it's just a nice day on the lake.

Happy husband!

San Feliciano from the boat.

I couldn't resist a little Italian pride.

 

  Once on the island, we just took off hiking up towards the top. Perfect walking weather, for sure.

A little cloud cover made it not too warm.

  I was keen to see if the old aqautic pond area was open to the public this year. It hasn't been for some time. I snuck in once, years ago...but never got to see it again.
  Until now-Yes, the gate was open! No sneaking around! Plus, we were the only people there. Lots of frogs and lizards...and us.

  I found this informatiom online:

"  The Garden of the Aquatic Plants: it was built in 1995 thanks to the architectural and functional recovery, cared by the Province of Perugia, of a unique swimming pool designed in 1959 by Peter Porcinai, one of the greatest Italian architects of the landscape. Mr. Porcinai devised a swimming pool (maximum depth 5.30 mt.) built into the rock and fed by the waters of Trasimeno Lake which, subject to special filtering techniques, achieve a high degree of transparency. "

  There is a peacefulness here that is so magical. The frogs, the water lillies, the reflections in the clear water. I loved it as much as the first time I saw it.
  All the water plants keep the pools so clear...

  I could totally imagine myself spending an hour or two here, sunbathing and taking little dips in the pool. Who wouldn't?

Especially nice with the view of the lake down below. Sigh.

  Of course, there is a perfect spot to get all naked and soak up sunshine..No, I did not, sadly.
  Another day, perhaps.

Where's my towel?

  Later, we headed up a little further to enjoy a simple 'torta al testo', a sandwich made on specific bread found in this region. We had it with grilled veg at the little hostel on the hill.
  Then, more hiking.

What a day!

  A few moments from the hike-

  Here comes the little boat. Ready to shuttle us back to the mainland.
 

  It was a great way to spend one of our last days here, for sure. So much to do before we leave, but we know we'll return as soon as we can.

Vegan In Castiglione del Lago

  I'm always looking for somewhere new to enjoy lunch in our area of Umbria. We are so fortunate to have wonderful places in our village, of course, but I like the hunt for a new dining experience.
  This past week, we were told by two people in one day about a new vegan/vegetarian restaurant in nearby Castiglione del Lago.
  I was intrigued, to say the least. Vegan? So close by? Hmmmmm.

  So, off we went, on the hunt.

  Located outside the historical center,  Bianco Rosso e Verdure isn't hard to find. You just need to look for this sign, on the right, as you head towards Pozzuolo:

The restaurant is connected to a lovely resort/spa.

  We parked on the street, but only because we didn't know there was a parking area inside the gates.
  You enter into a beautifully maintained drive, which leads to parking, and the spa.

Rooftop bar. Hotel rooms to the right.

  Maybe someday, I'll check out the spa. Every once in a blue moon, I wish for a good massage while I'm over here. As if just being here wasn't enough....
  Anyway, we arrived sort of late for lunch, so we were the only diners this day.
  We did see a few groups checking into the hotel for the long weekend, though.

The dining room. There is a pool just outside on the right.

  We were greeted, and asked to sit. The chef came out and told us about the daily three course lunch, but we just weren't that hungry. We were wanting something lighter, so we asked for the menu.
  We ended up ordering two of the same appetizers, because they were a combo and sounded so good. Also, a couple of glasses of wine, while we waited...

  This day's vegetarian appetizer sample was amazingly good. They had me at 'tempura', because I was ready for a different flavor sensation.
  Also included, two small bites of bruschetta, both versions flavor forward, and a small falafel on the creamiest, yummy hummus (that's a lot of mmmms).

  Every bite was great. The tempura was hot, crispy and not oily. The veggies inside were raw, which added another level of crunchy texture, in a very good way. The falafel, though small, packed a massive punch flavor from spices and a touch of agave, which gave it a nice sweetness. The hummus could have had a touch more garlic, but I really can't complain. It was just fine.
  The bruschetta with tomato was good, but the zucchini and leek, with some kind of wonderful sauce swiped on the toast...perfection.

I would love to eat this plate again. Right this minute.

  We could have stopped here, but we did order one 'primi', or pasta dish.
  This was also really good. Layers of thin pasta sheet covered in a black truffle sauce. The crunchy brown bits....well, we sort of fought over that part.

Yes. Please.

  Though we were now quite satisfied, we did try their version of tiramisu, vegan style.
  It's good! Not anything like any tiramisu I've had before, but still a nice way to end the meal.
  Satisfyingly 'chocolat-y', creamy, and not too sweet.

  Now.
  All this raving aside, I would be hesitant to recommend this place to everyone. The flavors are out-of-this-world good. Yes. The service was fantastic and friendly. The space is beautiful.
  So what's the 'but'....? The portions are very small (though so damn good, it didn't matter to us), and the price is higher than most local places in this area.
  This being said, we were thrilled with the find, left feeling full and satisfied, and would go back today. And tomorrow.
  This is a labor of love, and you can taste it in every bite.

  Be prepared to spend some hard earned euros, go with an open mind, and ENJOY!

  Bianco Rosso & Verdure

An Umbrian Garden

  There are many things to love about our time spent in Umbria every year, but one of our favorite things to do is visit one of our friend's lovely garden.
  Just down the hill from town, this small bit of heaven exists by way of many hours of hard work, year after year. Satisfying work, no doubt. We always look forward to stopping by once or twice, both to help with a small chore if we can, and/or to share a sip or a bite of something wonderful.
  Today we had a couple of small chores to help with, after some good espresso with biscotti, followed by a small glass of vino.
  Perfection.

  As I must always do, I took some photos of the amazing beauty to be found in this special garden...in the middle of Umbria...in the center of Italy.....

The entry arbor.

At this moment, it's all about the iris and the roses.

these make me swoon....

Outstanding color combination.

Roses just coming on.

So fragrant!

Very cool sculpture.

We call it 'snow in summer',,,

Getting the job done.

I can't get enough of these iris!

Layers and layers of beauty.

In another corner....

From above.

  We both feel so blessed to be friends of this garden, and it's lovely owner.

  We've spent many hours here, over the years...laughing, sharing stories, eating well, drinking well...puttering about...Johnny has painted in this garden, as well. It holds a very special place in our hearts, and we will think of the time spent here over and over when we are back in California.

  Just another afternoon in Umbria, yes...but also so much more.

Grazie, dear one.