Two Lunches, Two Towns, Two Full Bellies

  When my little ol' mind starts to think about our time in Italy, it can't help but get stuck on thoughts of all the wonderful eating we do. 

  Oh, sure, there's the gorgeous countryside, our lovely friends, day trips to interesting villages, art, art, art....but let's get real.

  It's all about the food, baby. 

  For me, the images my brain conjures up are most always centered on plates of food. IT'S ITALY!

  I try to be discreet as possible when eating out and taking photos. I don't know why, but I have recently become a little shy/embarrassed at snapping picture after picture of food. At least in public places. 

  This being admitted to, I did take a fair amount of shots, and I still have a few places to blog about from our last trip. I keep seeing these photos as I scroll through my iPhoto stuff, and they make me yearn for those days of leisurely lunches followed by a little nap... 

  This post is about a couple of lunches we enjoyed this year at two places we have been to before, and will most likely return to from time to time.

IL CERVO

  On our second trip to Panicale, we found "Il Cervo", a little spot just off the main drag in Arezzo.

  We had gone up there to enjoy the monthly antique fair, and to visit the Basilica of San Francesco, to view the fresco cycle, "Legends Of The True Cross", by the wonderful Piero della Francesca.

  This was one of many 'art pilgrimages' for Johnny. Me, well sure...I enjoy the various churches and all the art and history....but I'm mostly along for the inevitable lunch. If the art is contemporary, I get excited.

  So, we went back again last year, but it had closed early for Easter Sunday. Some excuse, sheesh.

Anyway, this year, we finally made it back, and it was just as I had remembered.....

  I guess the building housed a pharmacy back in the day, and the facade still has the original signage, which is just so cool....

  I love Il Cervo, because it's not a typical trattoria. You walk in, choose a type of pasta, choose what sauce you want with it, then pick out some type of side dishes...various veggies for us...then head upstairs to your table. We let the very nice fellow behind the counter choose a few of the vegetable side dishes for us. Surprise us!

  A waitress will stop by and take your order for drinks. As before, we were the only 'tourists' in the place. I think this is a place that local office/store workers and such come to for lunch. It was packed in no time, with Italian speakers only. Our kind of place.

House made pasta and sauces, you choose the combo.

  There are several small dining areas, which reflects the buildings history...perhaps doctor's offices or apartments?

 I like the simple decor.. there are some nice painted ceilings.

Waiting for something yummy to happen.

  Our wine and water arrive, as well as basket of the classic Tuscan style bread....no salt, crusty crust on the outside, soft and chewy inside. This bread is made to sop up all the various sauces, etc.

  Then we are blessed with a heaping plate of mixed veggie antipasti.

Oh, I think something yummy just happened.
A wonderful combination of baked, roasted, steamed and sautéd goodness.
A perfect amount to share before our pasta comes.

Heaven sent baked fennel and red onion.
I could just stop here.....for days.

  We each ordered a different pasta with a different sauce, so we could share bites, as always. Well, almost always. Every once in awhile we will run into a menu with only one vegetarian option, and we'll both go for it. 

  But normally like to order two things we can share. Yes, we swap plates a few times. Don't you?

In this case, I ordered pappardelle with 'sugo all' arrabbiata',
the much loved spicy red sauce of Italy. 

I love this variety of pasta...the wide noodle.
All made in house, of course.

The love of my life ordered tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms
The fragrance was most divine! And..it tasted molto bene.

  I'm certain we will return again some day to Il Cervo, because it's great for vegetarians, it's fast, the prices are very reasonable and the service is friendly. And...we always enjoy a visit to Arezzo.

  

  Just a short side trip of the brain here.....

  We love finding new places to try for lunch, but there are a few places we can't miss going back to

every year. 

  Why do I write about places I've already written about?

  Sometimes I can't help it, usually because we tried something new, and as vegetarians, it's nice to share new menu items with my veggie readers. 

  Why don't I write about some places?

  It's not that the meal was bad...Most every time we've eaten out, it's been great. Sadly, many times the photos I take are just the pits, because the lighting is really bad, or I can't figure out my camera settings, or I have totally forgotten my camera(true)...and to be dead honest...lately it's because I get embarrassed to be one of those diners taking pictures of food, as I mentioned above.

  So... I like to be in a restaurant that isn't too fussy, has good natural light, and no one is noticing my camera action. If the photos come out well, I'm 3/4 of the way to a blog post.

  Ok. All that being said...

  The second of our 'Two Lunches/Two Towns' journey today, brings us closer to home.

  I am talking about right along the shores of Lago Trasimeno, in the quaint fishing village, San Feliciano.

ROSSO DI SERA

  Yes, this is another place I've written about before, here, and since that visit, we always make sure to have lunch at least once at this now favorite spot. 

  This year we happened to go on a Sunday. It was a gorgeous day, and we really had not expected it to be so packed. We were almost turned away, but they made room for us. Silly me, I hadn't thought I would need to make a reservation. Whew! Dude, lesson learned...

  The thing is, and especially on Sundays, there are a finite amount of tables, and once all are filled, that's it. No real 'turnover' happens. You sit, you enjoy a relaxed 2-4 hour lunch, and then the place closes until dinner service.

  We settled ourselves in, ordered some wine and sat back to go over the menu....

  

  

House made whole grain bread comes in a brown bag,
 closed with a wooden clothespin

A full dining room on this Sunday afternoon.

  We weren't super hungry, so went light this day.

  One of the daily special starters was a fava bean 'sformata' (a sort of soufflé almost) with a pecorino cream sauce, roasted cherry tomato, and the most beautiful beet sprouts....This was one of the prettiest dishes I've seen.

Right?

Can't you just imagine this...
The sweetness of the fava with the sharp and salty pecorino...
The beet sprouts added a nice crisp touch.

  Johnny opted for oven roasted tomatoes served with field greens, which was also beautiful.

Drizzled with Umbrian olive oil, and a bit of thyme.
Perfection. This is when that good bread comes in handy.

  The menu on this day offered only one vegetarian pasta, which we both ordered. No pasta sharing this time...boo-hoo.

  Sunday lunches are known for at least three courses, the pasta being a middle course. For us, this was a perfect entree. You don't need to order all courses offered.

  Cappalletti are similar to ravioli, in that they are a stuffed pasta. 

  These were stuffed with a mix of pecorino and fresh mozzarella, and served with a very simple sumo, a red sauce. A liberal sprinkling of dried thyme gave it an herby, fragrant note. A bit of crushed red pepper added just enough kick.

Ummm, yes, please.
I think I will.

  Seeing these photos makes my tummy growl, and makes me even more desperate for 2017. Especially these days of madness and crazy. Can't we just disappear...like magic? Now?

  I see us there, sitting at a small table in one trattoria or another...perhaps on a cold day, with the windows all foggy from the goings on in the kitchen...the smells are to die for, the wine we sip is something local, superb....Johnny reaches a hand across the table to take mine. We smile at each other and start to giggle....because we are back. We are back.
  We are back for good.

When My Mind Starts To Wander

  It's not yet time to begin the official "Count Down", but the flights are booked, the car has been rented, and the deposit on the apartment is secure.

  I need this. 

  I need this bad.

  Let's just say that I'll be very happy to put 2014 to bed, come December 31st.

  

  With life starting to feel a little more normal, I can allow myself to think about Panicale, and our yearly  adventure. My mind wanders the streets almost nightly, and the landscape is so close in my heart I can feel it. 

  I dreamt I was having a chat with Aldo at Bar Gallo last night…true. It was slow, no one around….just how we like it. TV playing top 40 videos, Italian style. Sigh.

  Some pals have been concerned because I have not been writing as much. Also true. 

  So for all of us who pine daily for our dear little spot in Umbria, this is for us...

Panicale in her early morning haze…
That's a Cercis in bloom….

High drama clouds mean a shower coming soon, but what great light.

   I miss the big views…we love driving around Lago Trasimeno, or out into the countryside. I never get tired of the hyper green fields, or the old olive groves. I am happy as can be, sitting shotgun as the landscape slowly cruises by.

The lake changes color all day long.

Another dreamy scene. Perfect color combination.

Shapes. Gorgeous shapes.

Is it 2014, or 1614?

A very familiar view for those of us who take this walk.
Again, I'm lost in time.

Another view from a regular walking path.
Just outside of Panicale….

 


  People ask us why we travel in late winter. There are a few reasons…prices are much more reasonable for all the big ticket items, and it's pretty slow at the gallery. We can get away with being open just on the weekends, and we thank our lucky stars that we have some friends who will work for us while we are away.

  Sure, the weather can get cold, wet and sometimes windy; we don't mind. We get the place to ourselves. It's a nice chance to settle in with the local folks before things start jumping after Easter and such…..

Loving the peace and quiet on the shores of Lago Trasimeno.
In summer months, this place would be packed.

Enjoying a quiet moment on the hill.

  We were so lucky to have the chance to climb up into the "tower" next to Porta Perugino, one of the main gates into the walled part of town.
  They refer to this building as "Il Castello", the castle. It's very impressive, and we loved getting up inside. We always park right near the base of it….

"Il Castello"

  I had my camera, of course, and I used it. You just don't get to see these views from anywhere else in town….

A great day to be here.
I can't get enough of the old roof tiles. They slay me.

Beautiful.

Again, the colors of the fields with the colors of the buildings..yum.
The clouds just add drama.

 Every year I enjoy watching the fields of durum wheat come alive. It starts out as just lovely tilled soil, and by the time we are ready to head home, these fields are magic.
 
 

It's just one more thing I forget about,
until I'm back experiencing it.

Another type of grass, near a small creek.
I loved the movement, and the color combo.

  Visiting various gardens, either friend's or public, is always a treat. 

  I enjoy peeking into courtyards in the bigger tows, because you never know if you'll find a bunch of old trash cans, or a gorgeous small garden.

An interior courtyard garden in Bologna, I do believe.
I would kill to have this in my garden here!
I think the walls are just fantastic, with the old climbing roses...

 Bearded Iris grow so well here…they are everywhere! These  soft violet varieties look stunning against the local stone walls, and they are incredibly fragrant.

  

  The Iris below are in a pal's garden. I hope I can spend more time in this garden when we return. It's a favorite place to hang out and pull weeds, or transplant cuttings. 

  

  Yeah, my mind is wandering…Big Time…

   Sigh.

  Johnny and I have fallen in love with this great bar in San Feliciano. There is a big patio with lots of tables, and a park for kids. It sits right on Lago Trasimeno. We'll head over in the late afternoon for a glass of wine, a snack, and some really good people watching. Especially on a nice weekend.

  Sometimes Johnny will bring his unfinished paintings to work on. I'll have a book…

  Heaven.

Panicale is across the lake in the hills beyond that sailboat.
A short and lovely drive.

This painting is one for us.

  It's all so good…even the waiting part.

Sunset through Stew's fig tree.

  This year has been such an ongoing roller coaster ride, and it's still zooming up and down the tracks….I really don't know what tomorrow will bring. All I can do is keep moving forward, keep living life as normal as possible, and let my self dream the dream….

And breathe….

Lunch At: Rosso di Sera, Finally!

  Back in 2010, when I was first looking into Panicale and the surrounding are, one of the restaurants that caught my attention was Rosso di Sera (Red of Evening), on the shores of Lago Trasimeno. 

  Naturally, they specialize in fish, but also offer some contemporary takes on local, regional cuisine. They are part of the ever growing Slow Food movement in Italy, featuring local, heirloom-produce based dishes, and seasonal cooking.

  They are located just past San Feliciano, on the way to Passignano sul Trasimeno.

  Basically this means it's right on the lake, between two great lakeside towns. We were so happy to be here, just a day or two into our trip, on a lovely warm day…when we passed by the restaurant and saw it was open for lunch, it was a must stop. 

We could tell right away that we were in for something a little less traditional….

  

  We popped our heads in, and had a quick chat with the darling owner, who was more than happy to in form us that there were many choices for vegetarians…..too true!

I love a menu with zippo translation, and great prices, to boot!
 Plus, it changes all the time.

  The front area has a small bar and some really cool art work. We chose to sit out on the covered porch, which had open walls with views onto the lake, nearby...

A lovely dining room with old tables, a mix of chairs and fantastic light fixtures..
With a view on the lake, too. We want to come back at night.

  We were a couple of very happy campers, ready for anything…..we felt relaxed and hungry, having just come from a good hike about the old town nearby. The day was warm, fragrant with spring flowers, and tempting us to just go for it!
  We ordered a half carafe of the house white, to start the adventure...

I'm hungry and happy!

I'm just glad to be sitting right here, right now!

  Ok, we have been told that you just shouldn't order things to "share" in Italian restaurants….but we have small appetites, though mighty…..and we always share things at home in the States. For the most part, we will feel the situation out. This is a casual "osteria", and the owner was so helpful with the menu…we knew it would be ok to split a few things.

  This being said, if I knew how totally amazing this onion with pecorino creme crostata was going to be….well I'm going back just for this dish. 

  And I may order two, just for myself.

Half of a slice of the onion tart with a pecorino creme.
Really, one of the best things I've ever tasted. 

  After getting over how great the crostata was, we delved into our next course.

  I had an artichoke "lasagnetta". I assumed this would be thin layers of pasta with some form of artichoke inside. 

  It was a surprise to be served the crispy fried pasta "disks", with a very tasty artichoke puree and melted cheeses between the layers. 

  Not at all what I expected, but really good. The tomato fonduta was just a little sweet, a little spicy…a very fine combo of textures and flavors.

Not your Nonna's lasagna….
And yes, the "shine" is olive oil….

 Fantastic!

  Surprisingly, Johnny ordered soup, which was a cavolo nero (black cabbage) and bean…the bean being black-eyed peas, of all things. Light, subtle and super "clean" tasting, we switched plates half way through our meal.
  I enjoyed the simplicity of this soup. Outstanding flavors, and very typical.

Perfect and uncomplicated.

  We asked about contorni, or veggie side dishes. We were offered a chef's special of that day, roasted eggplant and tomatoes, baked with a little cheese on top. Sounded great to us, so…."Yes"!
  What we were served was a small casserole which was delightfully rich and decadent….not the sliced and roasted veg we are used to here. I would return to have this dish again.

Hot and bubbly, just out of the oven….

With fresh herbs….another perfect dish we shared.

  We finished every bite, and decided on ordering a dessert just because the guys at the table next to us did. It looked so good….We had what they had….

   While waiting, we relaxed and enjoyed the views onto the lake...

Dreamy, right?
 Well, I think so, anyway…feels to me like a different century altogether...

  We happily awaited our espressos and chocolate torta, just letting the soft winds from the lake roll over us.

  When our dessert was served, we were in a state of contentment, full, giddy, and uber-relaxed.

  In reality, I think we may have just been jet-lagged, but what the hell…we were happy.

Not too sweet, and just rich enough to know
you're being indulgent.

Oh, that crust was to die for, I gotta say.

  All in all, I'm sorry we didn't try this place sooner, but we will definitely return.
 For info on Rosso di Sera, the best I could find is their Facebook page, here. It gives you the info you need for your visit, when you are in the Lago Trasimeno area. Go!!