A Morning with Keats In Testaccio

  Before we left Rome, and made the train ride up here to Panicale, we stopped by the Cimitero per Stranieri, or the cemetery for foreigners either living as expats in Rome, or those so in love with Rome that they needed to spend eternity here, or those that happened to die here on an extended visit.  Also known as the Protestant Cemetery of Rome... 

  The cemetery is in the same area we choose to stay, the Testaccio, and it is just steps away from the big pyramid. Yes, there is a pyramid in Rome. You can learn about it here. It's worth the metro ride just to see the pyramid, but enjoy a stroll in the cemetery and lunch in a nearby trattoria, and you have a nice late morning-early afternoon adventure.

  Last time here, we were not able to visit, as the cemetery was closed for some maintenance reasons. I was thrilled that it was open, and on an almost warm, beautiful day. We arrived mid morning, so the light was fantastic, too. 

  

Sign at the entrance gates.

A lovely green space in the city.

  I wish I knew who some of these people were...I know there were writers, artists, architects, educators and more, but most names were unknown to me. My bad, certainly. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed the time just strolling along and being awed by the feeling of this place.

I thought the balancing square was nice, and a very contemporary touch here.

You are directed to certain "biggie" resting places. In this cemetery, though in different attars, you will find both Shelly and Keats, so there are groups large and small walking through, as well as fans paying respect. We worked our way up to the top of the hill, following the signs to see the stone of Percy Shelly. A nice spot, to be sure.

  I particularly loved this one, below, a jaunty fellow just resting with his spaniel and a good read. Not certain exactly who he was, but he must have been someone. And someone who loved his little dog very much, indeed. And the comfort and warmth of a nice cashmere throw.

  Hey, I get it.

With a name like Devereux Plantagenet Cockburn, well, you would expect
a resting place like this, right?

  Of course it's peaceful and sets you to contemplate, especially with so much history all around, inside and outside the walls of the cemetery. I would put it on any "list to do" while in Rome. It's a fantastic few moments in an other-wordly place.

  I was quick to notice the wonderful plantings all around. Many of the sites had small arches, full of climbing roses to come on in spring. Too early now, but I still really appreciated what it would be like soon enough.

All the old trees are full of birds, and birdsong.

A rare shot of color. 

A most poignant little scene here.

  In an entirely different area, with more open space, sun, and benches (and cats!), we finally found the tribute and gravesite of John Keats. He lies side by side with his good friend, Joseph Severn, who made the trip to Rome with him. Keats was sent to Italy to try and recover from tuberculosis, but he did not. The two were in Rome together only a few short months, with Severn taking care of pal until the end.

He whose name is writ on water.....

  It's a sweet spot to rest in peace, and we lingered for some time, enjoying the gardens, sun and the wild antics of the cemetery cats.